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DOMESTIC SeiBNGB COURSE NUMBER 1. 



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,T LftKe CITY 

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Complete Course 

IN 

DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

Containing Sections Upon 

HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS 

FOODS AND COOKING 

NUTRITION AND DIETETICS 

HOME NURSING AND EMERGENCY WORK 

HOME AND MUNICIPAL SANITATION 



Si . I Prepared for the 

31 T ^ w ' '( 

Inter-Mountain School of Correspondence 



By 

PROF. DALINDA M. COTEY 
Professor of Domestic Science in the State Agricultural College 

of Utah 



I. HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS 



INTER MOUNTAIN 
SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE, 
SALT LAKE CITY. 
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Copyright, 1905, By 

INTEU-MOUNTAIN SCHOOL. OF CORRESPONDENCE. 



INTRODUCTION. 



In this modern time, when the principles of science 
are applied everywhere in daily life, the application 
of science to the problems of home life must not he 
ignored. 

Everyone now recognizes scientific farming, 
scientific dairying, stock raising, poultry raising, as 
far more successful than the same lines of work with- 
out the application of scientific principles. Surprise 
is now expressed that anyone expects to be successful 
in any such vocation except upon modern scientific 
methods. 

Housekeeping has not kept pace in this respect Avith 
other work. It has, to a certain extent, stood still in- 
stead of progressing. The only possible reason for this 
lack of progress in the art of housekeeping, is that the 
housekeeper, does not learn new methods of doing her 
work. Too many women are satisfied to do as their 
mothers and grandmothers did, and do not try to 
find better ways. 

In order that housekeeping may make progress 
equal to that made by other skilled vocations, the 
housekeeper must realize that her work is an art, 
and that it requires study and training. 

Women must be willing to try new methods and 



must believe that science will help the housekeeper 
as it has helped the worker in other callings. 

There are many young women who would gladly 
learn new methods of housekeeping and scientific 
principles of cooking, and of hygiene and sanitation if 
it were within their power to do so, but circumstances 
are too often such that it is impossible for them to 
leave home for study and training in the art. Know- 
ing that there are hundreds of young women who will 
gladly avail themselves of such desirable knowledge, 
this correspondence course in Home Economies is 
offered. 

This manual will be the first of a series includ- 
ing, besides the present treatise upon "Household Eco- 
nomics," "Foods, Their Composition and Uses in the 
Body," "Theory and Practice of Cookery," Person- 
al Hygiene," "Home Sanitation," and other kindred 
subjects. These courses have been prepared by one 
who has had many years' experience in teaching Do- 
mestic Science; one who has full knowledge of the 
conditions of Western life, and who has a heartfelt 
desire to be helpful to the devoted young women 
whose duties and pleasures lie in Western homes. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 



THE HOUSE. 
Chapter. I. 



The house itself must be studied before the varied 
processes of living in the house can be intelligently 
considered. It will now be discussed : — 

First, as to location; 

Second, as to plan; 

Third, as to location of rooms; 

Fourth, as to finish of rooms; 

Fifth, as to furnishings for rooms. 

Location. — The climate will help to some ex- 
tent in determining the location of the house with 
reference to the points of the compass. In a warm 
climate the rooms most commonly used should be on 
the shady side of the house; whereas in a cool cli- 
mate such rooms should be located so as to receive all 
the sunshine possible. The need in this respect will 
determine which direction the house should front. 

In cities a corner location is more desirable than 
the center of the block, as the house receives better 
light and ventilation, and is also less liable to annoy- 
ance from near neighbors. The corner location is 
more noisy and also more expensive, as rentals or 
property values are higher and there is more fence and 
sidewalk to care for. Close proximity to tall build- 
ings should be avoided as they shut out light and free 
circulation of air. 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



Nearness to stagnant water or to any ill-smelling' 
place must be avoided for sanitary reasons; and near- 
ness to a saloon, or any disreputable business or resort, 
must be avoided for moral reasons. 

PLANS OF HOUSE. 

Plans for a moderate sized house have changed 
greatly during- the past few years and are still chang- 
ing. The room that is now regarded as the most im- 
portant one is the family Jiving room. A parlor is 
no longer considered desirable for any but a large 
house. This family living room should be the largest 
and best room in the house, with large windows fur- 
nishing abundant sunlight and with as pleasing an 
outlook as possible. 

The Hall may be a fair sized room, or it may be 
a mere entry — a sort of distributing passage way — 
to avoid passing directly from out of doors into the 
living room. Since the modern tendency is towards 
one story houses for moderate sized residences, there 
is not so much need of the large hall now as formerly. 

All rooms should connect in such a way as to avoid 
inconvenience, noise and unnecessary steps. 

The Dining Room may be of quite moderate size 
if it is to be used only at meal times, and may be lo- 
cated in a less desirable part of the house than the 
living room. 

Some passage should be arranged between kitchen 
and dining room to prevent odors from the cooking- 
penetrating to other parts of the house. A very de- 
sirable plan is*to have pantry and China closet be- 
tween the kitchen and dining room. If the kitchen 
range is provided with a good "hood" to carry off 
odors and vapors there will be little trouble to pre- 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 



vent their entrance into other rooms. It is a great sav- 
ing of steps to have the pantry and China closet ar- 
ranged as suggested. 

A Good Store Room should be provided not far 
from the kitchen for the storing of groceries and food 
supplies. This room must be kept cool and should, 
therefore, be on the shady side of the house. This 
room should be kept dark the most of the time but 
should be well ventilated and capable of being well 
lighted. 

If the house is large enough to warrant taking the 
floor space a separate room for laundry uxyrk should 
be provided, but in the moderate sized house this work 
may be done in the kitchen. 

A Bath Room is a necessity in every home and 
should not be regarded as a luxury. 

Sleeping Rooms in houses more than one story 
high are generally most satisfactory when they are 
located on an upper floor. The air in the rooms will 
be purer and freer from dampness than when the 
rooms are close to the ground. If the house is all on 
the ground floor, as in the modern cottage, a high 
foundation should be built to raise the floor a reason- 
able distance from the ground. In the high altitude 
and dry atmosphere of this Inter-Mountain region 
there is little danger to be feared from sleeping in 
rooms on the ground floor. When there are sleeping 
rooms on the second floor it is usually desirable to 
have the mother's room on the ground floor, unless 
there is some good reason why it should not be there. 
This plan saves time and inconvenience in the care 
of chiliren and in case of illness. 

A Clothes Closet should be provided opening from 
each bedroom, These closets should have light and 



8 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

ventilation if possible, but if not they should be rather 
shallow so as to be ventilated from the room. The 
door should stand open when the bed room is airing 
and as much as possible during the day. 

.4. Linen Closet within convenient reach of the 
bedroom is a marked convenience. This should be a 
room with a window, or a cupboard built into the wall 
of the hall. This closet or cupboard is used for storing 
surplus bedding and pillows, as well as the clean bed 
linen and towels. 

Attic. — If the house has an attic it must be well 
ventilated and lighted. It should have sufficient 
floor to enable every part of the room to be well 
cleaned. Nails or hooks may be fastened in the 
rafters upon which to hang unused chairs, bags of 
herbs, seeds, and many other things that are not con- 
veniently kept elsewhere, and thus save floor space, 
and also to permit the floor to be easily swept and 
kept clean. 

The Cellar must be well ventilated and lighted 
and kept dry and clean. This topic of the cellar anc 
its condition will be discussed more fully in the 
course in Home Sanitation that will appear later. 



REVIEW FOR CHAPTER I. 

1. What points must be kept in mind in select- 
ing a location for the bouse? 

3. What are the most important points to con 
sider in locating the different rooms in the house* 

4. What advantages and what disadvantages has 
the one story house? 

5. What conditions must be considered in plan- 
ning for clothes closets and linen closets? 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 



Chapter II. 
THE KITCHEN. 

As the kitchen is one of the most important rooms 
of the house it must be given more study than most 
other rooms receive. An outline for study of the 
kitchen will help to fix the important points of the 
study more firmly in the mind. 

KITCHEN STUDY OUTLINE. 

1. General History and Development of Kitchen. 

2. Kinds of Kitchen : 

( a ) Home Kitchen ; 

(b) Hotel Kitchen; 

(c) Shipboard and Pullman Car Kitchens; 

(d) School Kitchen. 

3. Location of Kitchen. 

4. Size of Kitchen. 

5. Finish of Kitchen : 

(a) Floor; 

(b) Walls and ceiling; 

( c ) Woodwork. 

6. Light and Ventilation. 

7. Furnishings: 

(a) Kinds; 

(b) Arrangement. 

8. General Condition and Care. 

HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT. 

The first idea of architecture was a covering for 
the fire, and we may imagine this covering to have 
been the first kitchen. Caves and hollow rocks were 
undoubtedly used by primitive man as a shelter for 



io DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

himself and his fire, which thus became the primitive 
kitchen. 

The kitchens of the Southern European races devel- 
oped in a very different way from those of the ancient 
people of Northern Europe. The ancient Greeks and 
Romans had the kitchen in an open court with a cover- 
ing or awning- over one end only, to protect the space 
where the people worked from the sun's rays. The 
kitchen of the ancient Saxons and Norsemen was a 
low, round hut or mound-like room with a low door 
that served for the escape of the smoke as well as for 
the entrance of the people. For a long time this 
kitchen remained separate from the house, but finally, 
among the most of the Northern people, it became a 
part of the house. 

Among the middle class people of the old world, the 
kitchen is a very picturesque room, and, especially 
in the rural districts, it is large and comfortably fur- 
nished. Artists delight to paint pictures of kitchens 
in Germany and Scandanavia, while the quaint Dutch 
kitchen is a delight to everyone. 

The New England kitchen of Colonial times was 
a very large room having an immense fireplace with 
its great brick oven beside it. The room was used as 
a general family living room. The spinning wheel and 
loom were generally found there, and other instru- 
ments of general family use. 

.Many Colonial stories give charming word pictures 
of (hese old-time kitchens and many paintings of them 
are in existence. Some societies, such as the 
" Daughters of the Revolution," are trying to pre- 
serve some of these old-time kitchens in their original 
form with their real old-time furnishings. Museums 
are collecting such old articles of furniture and ar- 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 



ranging old-time kitchens so that they may not pass 
from the knowledge of present and future generations. 

As more rooms were added to the house, the kitch- 
en was made smaller and adapted to the work that 
properly belongs to it, while the other home industries 
were taken elsewhere. 

The Hotel Kitchen is in marked contrast with the 
home kitchen. It is an immense room, or a series of 
smaller rooms, each one adapted to some one line of 
kitchen work. Not an unnecessary article of furniture 
is found and every possible arrangement is made to 
save time and labor; not an unnecessary motion must 
be made nor an unnecessary step taken. 

The kitchen of the up-to-date hotel is placed on the 
top floor and is provided with skylight and roof ven- 
tilation. This prevents the odors and vapors of cook- 
ing from reaching other apartments. 

The Shipboard Kitchen and dining car kitchen on 
railway trains are ideal as far as compact arrange- 
ment is concerned. Every article has its place and 
nothing is allowed out of place for a moment unless 
it is in use. The amount of work that can be accom- 
plished in so small a space is surprising. Not a move- 
ment is wasted. Some of these plans of compact ar- 
rangement could certainly be appropriated for the 
benefit of the home kitchen. 

LOCATION OF HOME KITCHEN. 

The climate and the direction in which the house 
fronts must determine, in part at least, the portion 
of the house that is best adapted for the kitchen. In 
a warm climate the kitchen is preferable on the north 
side of the house, and in an "ell" where it can get air 
from three sides. In a cold climate this would be too 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



exposed. If not convenient to locate the kitchen in an 
"ell" it should be a corner room so that it will have air 
and light from two sides. In this climate an ideal lo- 
cal ion for the kitchen is in the southeast corner of the 
house. It is desirable to have the kitchen well lighted 
when the morning work is going; on. 

SIZE OF KITCHEN. 

If the kitchen is to be used as dining room and 
family living room as well as for kitchen it must be 
quite a large room; but if it is used for the regular 
kitchen work only it may be, and should be, quite 
small. When not really necessary the large kitchen 
is objectionable, as it, 

First, wastes time and strength in keeping it clean ; 

Second, wastes time and strength in needless steps; 

Third, wastes fuel in heating it; 

Fourth, occupies room that could be better used. 

Many housekeepers fail to realize the amount of 
time and strength they waste every day in unnecessary 
steps about a large or a poorly arranged kitchen. 

Twelve by fourteen feet is amply large for the 
kitchen of a moderate sized house. A kitchen as small 
as ten by twelve feet, or one nine by thirteen feet, is 
ideal for a small family; and if it is properly arranged 
the regular kitchen work for a large family may be 
done in a kitchen of that size without waste of time or 
effort. The very small kitchen may be objectionable 
on account of the heat from the range, but if this is 
hooded and the kitchen ventilated there will be little 
difficulty. The location of pantry, store room and 
cellar, with reference to the kitchen, must be carefully 
considered with a view to economizing steps. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 13 



FINISH OF KITCHEN. 

( a ) The Floor. — This should be as hard, smooth and 
even as possible, and of material that is easily cleaned. 
Marble or tiling makes an ideal floor from a sanitary 
standpoint, but is too unyielding. The worker in such 
akitchen becomes unnecessarily fatigued from walking 
or standing on so hard a floor. Wood seems to be the 
best material for the kitchen floor as it is somewhat 
yielding under the feet and can be dressed in such a 
way as to be easily cleaned. The flooring should be the 
best selected bard timber, free from knots and sawed 
in such a manner that the wood will not splinter up 
with use. It should be narrow, matched material and 
carefully fitted. There must be no cracks either in the 
floor or where the floor joins the baseboard, to harbor 
dirt and germs. This smooth board floor may be oiled 
or stained, and if this dressing is renewed each year 
the floor will wear indefinitely. 

Renewing Old Flows . — If the floor boards are good 
but do not match closely the cracks can be filled with 
a mixture of flour paste and paper. Make a thick 
flour paste and stir in newspaper torn in pieces; boil 
until the mixture is a thick pulp. Fill the cracks with 
this paper pulp and let it harden. It will become as 
soild as the floor and the whole surface may then be 
painted or stained. It will perhaps not be amiss here 
to state that painted kitchen floors, while very satis- 
factory in the East, do not seem to be as satisfactory 
in the mountain regions of the West. In this Western 
country they do not wear well, and whether the fault 
is in the paint or the climate seems difficult to de- 
termine. 

Linoleums.— If the floor is too old to dress satisfac- 
torily in anyway it should be covered with linoleum 



i 4 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



of good quality. This must be carefully fitted at the 
edges so that dust will not lodge there or water soak 
in when the floor is cleaned. 

Old and worn linoleum or floor oil-cloth must not 
be allowed to remain on the floor. When the top var- 
nish is worn off organic matter and moisture soak 
through the fabric; the room will then have a dirty, 
musty odor, no matter how clean it may be kept other- 
wise. This decomposing of organic matter may also 
become a source of disease. 

A Carpet has no place in a kitchen, as it holds 
dust and odors. It is impossible to keep a carpet suf- 
ficiently free from dust to be safe to use where food is 
prepared. 

Rugs may be used to stand upon in front of work 
tables, sink and resting chairs without objection, as 
they are easily taken out of doors, beaten, sunned and 
aired. 

These rugs keep the feet warm, relieve the pres- 
sure upon the feet from standing upon a board floor, 
and also add an appearance of comfort to the kitchen. 

(b) Finish of Walls and Ceiling. — The kitchen 
walls should be hard and smooth so that they can not 
hold dust or absorb organic matter and moisture. 

The most satisfactory wall finish from the stand- 
point of sanitary cleanliness, utility and beauty, is the 
hard finish plaster, painted some pretty tint, Such a 
wall is smooth, non-absorbent and as easily cleaned as 
painted wood-work. This finish will last as long as the 
plaster does. It is not a very expensive finish, the cost 
being especially reasonable if some member of the 
family can apply the paint. The color may be a pretty 
buff, soft blue, light sage, olive green or soft rose 
color. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 15 

Oilcloth carefully glued to the walls makes a san- 
itary and durable wall finish, but one that is not espe- 
cially artistic. Oilcloth is more durable than the 
painted wall, as it protects the plaster from blows and 
scratches. The oilcloth makes a very desirable wains- 
coting if it is not liked on the entire wall. 

Wood wainscoting is not desirable for a kitchen 
unless the wood is thoroughly seasoned, so that the 
joints will not separate, and very smoothly painted, 
so that dust will not adhere to the surface. 

Cwlcimine is always a desirable finish for a kitchen 
wall. It is easily renewed each year; it is inexpensive; 
and, if applied by an experienced workman, the walls 
may be made very attractive by the pleasing tints ob- 
tainable. 

(c) Finish of Wood Work. — The ideal finish for 
the wood work of a kitchen is hard oil finish on hard 
pine. This finish is hard, smooth and much more easily 
cleaned than the ordinary painted wood work. It is 
more expensive in the first place than paint, but it is 
much more desirable. This hard oil finish is of a me- 
dium light yellow color that gives an impression of 
sunshine in the kitchen. Dust or dirt do not readily 
adhere to this finish, and the little that does accu- 
mulate is easily removed by wiping with a soft flannel 
and a very small amount of oil. If this hard finish can 
not be obtained the wood work should be painted with 
a medium light color. It should receive a sufficient 
number of coats to produce a smooth, glossy sur- 
face. 

Seine of the kitchens in new city houses have the 
wood work finished in white enamel. This enamel 
of course shows dirt and finger marks but is very 
easily cleaned. It is not to be recommended, however, 



l6 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



where there are children, a careless housekeeper, or 
an untidy maid, in spite of the fact that it cleans 
easily. 

The wood work in the kitchen should be plain with 
no mouldings, cornices or carvings,— no places for the 
possible lodgment of dust. 

LIGHT AND VENTILATION. 

The kitchen must be well lighted for three reasons : 

First, Sunlight destroys germs and purities the 
atmosphere of the room; 

Second, Light exposes the presence of dust and 
dirt; hence a well lighted kitchen is much more apt 
to be kept clean than a dark one; 

Third, Plenty of light enables the worker to see 
to do more carefully all the different kinds of work 
performed in the kitchen; 

Four, A bright, sunny, cheerful kitchen has a 
salutary effect upon the minds and nerves of its oc- 
cupants. 

Light should come from at least two sides of the 
kitchen, as it can scarcely be too light. The windows 
should be large and not heavily shaded on the outside 
by vines and trees as is often the case. A few vines 
over the windows during the heat of summer are not 
objectionable; or awnings may be used to partially 
exclude the heat of the sun on such days, or such por- 
tions of days, when it is found too great. 

The Ventilation of the kitchen must be more care- 
fully attended to than that of any of the other rooms 
of the house. Fresh air should be abundantly ad- 
mitted to the kitchen, because: 

First, The air in the kitchen is beaten into food; if 
that air is fresh the food is lighter, better flavored and 
more wholesome than if mixed with stale air; 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. if 

Second, For the convenience and comfort of the 
worker; 

Third, To prevent the vapors and odors Avhich arise 
from cooking reaching other parts of the house; 

Fourth, To prevent over-heating the kitchen from 
the range fire. 

There should be windows in the kitchen on oppo- 
site sides of the room, and also opposite from the out- 
side door, so that a quick and complete change of air 
may be secured. These windows should be arranged 
to lower easily from the top, so that the steamy air of 
the kitchen may pass out. If possible a ventilating 
Hue should be built in the wall just beside the chimney 
with an opening into it near the ceiling for the foul 
air to pass out. If this flue is not possible the air in 
the kitchen can be kept pure, free from steam and at 
a reasonable temperature by the intelligent use of 
doors, transoms and windows. 

KITCHEN FURNISHINGS. 

The furniture of the kitchen should consist of 
such articles only as are essential to the comfort and 
convenience of the ones who do the work in the kitch- 
en. All the articles of furniture must be simple in 
construction and plain in finish, and of material that 
will not hold dust or absorb odors. Any upholstered 
furniture is entirely out of place in a kitchen. 

The articles of furniture desirable in a kitchen 
will depend to some extent upon whether or not there 
is a pantry convenient to the kitchen, for holding the 
supplies, cooking dishes and utensils. If there is no 
pantry, then cupboards and a cooking cabinet must 
be provided in the kitchen. 



!8 ' DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



The most essential article of furniture in the 
kitchen is the kitchen range, which should be plain in 
finish, simple in structure and of size suited to the 
family. [As this piece of furniture is so closely con- 
nected with the cooking of food, it will be discussed 
fully, together with fuels, in the section on 
" Cookery."] 

The Cupboards in the kitchen must be suited in 
size to the needs of the family. 

A Cabinet to hold flour, meal, graham and sugar, 
with smaller drawers for tea towels, dish towels, hand 
towels, cooking holders, wrapping twine, scissors, and 
with a bread board to draw out when needed, which is 
a great convenience in any kitchen. There is a great 
variety of these cabinets; some of them are large and 
very elaborate, so that they will contain all the sup- 
plies and cooking utensils for small families. The 
simpler cabinet can be made by an ordinary carpen- 
ter, and when stained and finished with either an oil 
or varnish dressing is not unsightly and is certainly 
a great convenience to any housekeeperr. 

A 'VVork Table may have drawers or bins, or even 
a cupboard under it if desired, to hold tins and other 
utensils. A drop leaf is a great convenience in a small 
kitchen as it can be fastened against (he wall when 
not in use. 

A work table should be covered with white oilcloth 
as it is easily kept clean and gives a neat, tidy ap- 
pearance to the kitchen. If this oilcloth is not un- 
duly exposed to heat it will last a long time. Care 
should be taken not to place anything hot upon this 
oilcloth. The enamel coating is thus destroyed and 
removed, then water soaks in and the cloth is spoiled. 

Two or three chairs are sufficient for a medium 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 19 

sized kitchen. These should be plain and strong. A 
high stool or high chair is a necessity in a kitchen. 
There are many household tasks that can be performed 
as easily sitting as standing if the worker can be raised 
to the proper height above the work table. One can 
thus relieve the fatigue caused by continued standing. 
These- kitchen high chairs may be purchased at the 
furniture stores, or an ordinary straight back kitchen 
chair may have the legs removed and longer ones sub- 
stituted. 

The windows should be furnished with good blinds 
of a desirable color. Light curtains of washable ma- 
terial may be used to soften the light if desired, but 
they must be plain and simply hung so as to be easily 
removed and laundered. Sash curtains of very thin 
scrim, dotted {Swiss, or cheese cloth may be used if 
privacy is desired. 

A (Jood Clock is a necessity in a kitchen. 

TJiv Sink, if there is one, must be modem, with 
the plumbing in view; not the old fashioned one with a 
dark, damp cupboard underneath. The sink must 
be lined with material that will not rust. The por- 
celain, or enamel lined will last many years. 

A "dry sink'' — one without a drain — should not 
be used j it is very difficult to keep clean. The sink 
with a waste pipe draining into a pail is an untidiness 
in a kitchen. If there is no drain the dish water and 
other kitehen slops should be put into a pail and car- 
ried to the back yard, remote from both the house 
and the well, where it will not vitiate the air or water 
used. Dish water should never be thrown around the 
back door, as it is a menace to health, as well as being 
conducive to unsightliness. This kitchen slop pail 
must be cieaneu and scalded frequently. 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



ARRANGEMENT OF FURNITURE. 

The careful arrangement of the furniture of the 
kitchen, so as to save steps in doing the work, is a 
very important point to consider. The distance be- 
tween work table and stove, between stove and pantry, 
between work table and sink, must be carefully 
studied; the distance that food is carried from the 
stove to dining room, and from table to store-room, 
must be noticed and every possible change made that 
will save steps as well as time and strength. These 
are points of greater importance than the housekeeper 
usually realizes, for the few extra steps taken in these 
various directions will soon aggregate miles of useless 
Walking. 

GENERAL CONDITIONS OF KITCHEN. 

The kitchen must be, 

First, clean; 

Second, free from dust; 

Third, well supplied with fresh air; 

Fourth, as free from steam and dampness as pos- 
sible; 

Fifth, as nearly uniform in temperature as it can 
be with the use of the coal range. 

There are said to be three kinds of cleanliness; 
first, "aesthetic cleanliness," — keeping things clean 
for the dainty appearance only, while perhaps neglect- 
ing the dirt that is out of sight and far more danger- 
ous; second, "traditional cleanliness," — cleaning be- 
cause it is the regular day to clean, regardless of 
whether the cleaning is necessary or not. This form 
of cleanliness leads to great waste of strength and 
time; third, "Sanitary cleanliness," — keeping the 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 



house clean to prevent unhealthful conditions. This 
is the most important form of cleanliness and the 
condition that must be insisted upon in the kitchen. 

Dust in every form must be carefully guarded 
against. The dust of a kitchen contains organic mat- 
ter, and this, with the warmth and moisture of the 
room, is favorable to the development of germs. This 
dust settles into food in process of preparation and 
upon cooked food, and may thus become a source of 
disease. 

Dust should not be allowed to accumulate over 
the stove pipe or over tops of doors and windows, as 
every motion of air causes particles of it to float about 
and settle onto dishes and into food. The corners, base 
boards, and every place in the kitchen where dust will 
lodge and germs develop must be frequently cleaned. 
Any dark place in the kitchen is a source of danger. 

SCREENS. 

The kitchen must be carefully screened to keep out 
flies. Flies in the house are a source of dirt, discom- 
fort, and disease. They infest all manner of foul 
places and carry the filth on their feet wherever they 
go. Flies are a common cause of the spread of typhoid 
and other fevers. They cause a great deal of unnec- 
essary cleaning. Food of any kind should not stand 
uncovered in a kitchen where flies abound. 

AIR, 

The entire volume of air in the kitchen should be 
changed several times during the day. This may be 
done by opening door and window on opposite sides 
of the room for a few minutes. A window kept lowered 
a little from the top will help to carry off steam and 
odors if the range is not "hooded," 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



The Temperature of the kitchen is very difficult to 
regulate. When the ordinary coal range is used for 
cooking the kitchen is often badly overheated. Many 
housekeepers make the mistake of working with a fire 
much hotter than is necessary. In steam heated 
apartments, when the cooking is done with gas or by 
electricity, the temperature of the kitchen is easily reg- 
ulated. This temperature should not be much above 
00° Fahr., as cooler atmosphere is needed for work- 
ing than is desirable for a sitting 1 room. 

REVIEW OF CHAPTER II. 

1 . What are the general differences between home 
kitchen and shipboard kitchens? 

2. What were the general differences between the 
kitchens of the ancient people of Northern and South- 
ern Europe? 

3. Why should the kitchen be well ventilated? 
State the best method. 

4. Why should kitchen furniture be pin in and the 
Avood work smooth? 

5. Give your idea of the best covering for a kitch- 
en floor and estimate the cost. 

6. What are the advantages of the kitchen high 
chair? What kinds of work do you think you could 
do to advantage sitting down? 

7. What care is necessary to give to the kitchen 
sink or slop pail? Why should slop pail be emptied 
at some distance from house? 

S. Why should the kitchen be well lighted? (Jive 
the plan of windows and curtains best suited to se- 
cure proper light in kitchen. 

9. Is wall paper desirable on kitchens? Why? 
10. Find out what you can of pioneer kitchens in 
this retrion. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 23 

Chapter III. 
DINING ROOM FURNISHINGS. 

The dining room should bo simply furnished. 
Elaborate furnishings, fancy articles and many orna- 
ments are not in good taste in this room. Upholstered 
furniture, unless leather cornered, heavy hanging's 
that hold dust and absorb odors, should have no place 
in the dining room. 

If the floor is good a large ingrain rug or an "art 
square" may be used for the center of the room, and 
the remainder of the floor polished, stained or 
painted. This plan of floor covering is far more de- 
sirable than to have a carpet cover the entire floor, 
as it insures greater freedom from dust and odors. 

Curtains for the windows may lie of any washable 
material but should be hung in such a way as to be 
easily freed from dust. 

The Dining Room Table should be a really good 
extension, selected for good material and good finish 
and not for ornate style and elaborate trimmings or 
carvings. It should be wide rather than narrow and 
may have round or square effect at the corners, as may 
be preferred. 

Dining Room Chairs should be plain and substan- 
tial, with good, easy seat and moderately high back. 
Too high back on the chair is a serious annoyance to 
the one who serves the table. These chairs should be 
of good size and strength, so that heavy persons will 
not hesitate to sit on them. 

A Sideboard, or large cupboard, is necessary in the 
dining room if there is no China closet or pantry con- 
veniently near, in which to keep the dishes. A medium 



24 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

sized sideboard is very desirable in any dining room, 
although a plain narrow side table may be u?e f ! in- 
stead. Select a sideboard made of the best materials 
that can be afforded, choosing good shape and Fnish- 
ings rather than elaborate carvings and showy orna- 
ments. 

Table chairs, and sideboard, with one or two good 
pictures, are all the furnishings needed in a room used 
for meals only; but if it is used as a general family liv- 
ing room other articles of furniture can be added to 
suit the needs of the family. 

TABLE FURNISHINGS. 

There are few features of house keeping in which 
a woman should take more pride than in a well fur- 
nished, daintily cared for table. These furnishings 
will be considered under the following heads : 

First, Lnien; 

Second, China; 

Third, Silver; 

Fourth, Glass. 

Table Linen should be of good quality, pure linen, 
and medium heavy weight. It is very poor economy 
to purchase mixed linen and cotton goods, or thin, 
loosely woven linen, as such goods do not wear well, 
and are unsatisfactory while they last. 

Any price may be paid for linen, but a good article 
is not necessarily expensive. Pattern table cloths 
of the latest designs may be very expensive, but good 
quality, standard linen may be obtained at reasonable 
prices if purchased by the yard. One dollar a yard 
should purchase pure linen of excellent quality, good 
weight and width, and in desirable patterns. It is not 
the finest, but launders well and is desirable. Three 
dollars a dozen will buy good twenty-two-inch nap- 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 25 

kins to match. Linen at two dollars a yard and nap- 
kins at four dollars a dozen, twenty-four-inch size, are 
as fine quality as any but a really wealthy house- 
keeper need desire. 

Half bleached linen comes a little cheaper than the 
full bleached and, as a rule, wears better. It soon 
bleaches with use and is an excellent purchase for 
every-day use. A fair quality can be purchased at 
eighty-five cents a yard, and napkins at two dollars 
and a quarter a dozen. These are goods that give good 
service for the money the house keeper puts into them. 
Rather small patterns are generally to be preferred 
to larger ones. There are certain standard patterns 
that are always in good taste and are easily matched. 
The "Snowdrop" (polkadot), "Shamrock" (clover 
leaf), and the "Fleur de Lis" are the most desira- 
ble of the standard patterns. The "Wild Rose" and 
"Pansy" designs are common but vary more than the 
others named. 

The house keeper should possess a sufficient quan- 
tity of linen to insure an immaculate table at all 
times. It is wiser to economise in other things than in 
the means of setting an attractive table. 

TABLE DISHES. 

Good china is now so moderate in price that a desire 
for beautiful table dishes can be gratified without an 
extravagant outlay of money. For common use the 
semi-porcelain ware is entirely satisfactory. It is 
light in weio-ht and not easily cracked or chipped. The 
newer dishes in this wave come in the same shapes as 
the fine French Haviland china, and in similar pat- 
terns. If something finer is desired, the American 
rhina comes next and is a very desirable ware. The 
German china is excellent. The "Carlsbad" china is 



26 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

vrry desirable for the table, as the shapes are good 
and the patterns and tintings artistic. The Haviland 
china is a still finer and more expensive ware. It 
comes in the most exquisite colors and patterns. 

There arc many other table chinas, such as "Min- 
ton," "Royal Worcester," "Dresden" and others that 
are beyond the reach of the housekeeper in moderate 
circumstances. If decorated china is used, choose 
soft tints and small, unobtrusive patterns, as one so 
soon tires of striking effects on the table. 

Individual cups are commonly used instead of the 
cups matching the set, and if good taste is exercised in 
the matter of tints and ornamental shapes, they give a. 
pleasing appearance to the table. 

Many of the best homes use the fine china in plain 
white instead of the decorated ware. It is easily 
matched when a piece is broken. The best American 
china in plain white is a very satisfactory table ware 
and is not especially expensive. It is durable and 
does not readily chip or crack. 

For a small family it is not often desirable to 
purchase a full set of dishes; it is better economy to 
select, from a "stock pattern," just the pieces needed. 

To understand something of the history and de- 
velopment of table dishes, and something of their 
present manufacture, should be knowledge possessed 
l»y the housekeeper. There are various books pub- 
lished on the subject that would enable the young 
housekeeper to acquire some idea of the subject, 
'"Woman's Share in Primitive Culture,"' by O. P. 
Mason, gives a delightful account of primitive wo- 
man's efforts to make clay dishes. "Potters, Their 
Arts and Crafts," by John Sparks and Walter Candy, 
is another very interesting book on this subject. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 27 

Both books are moderate priced. A. C. McClurg & Co., 
Chicago, or any general book house, will furnish them. 
Housekeepers should take advantage of every 
opportunity to visit museums and study china, and 
also to visit large china stores, when they are in 
towns where they can do so. 

TABLE GLASS. 

But little glass is used on the table now, drinking 
glasses being about the only glassware left in common 
use. These glasses should be thin, plain in outline, 
and with but little decoration. If the housekeeper 
can afford the costly cut glass, she will find that very 
desirable for sugar, cream, pickles, fruit, salad, bon- 
bons, etc. If her means are limited she will not in- 
dulge in articles at onee so expensive and so fragile. 

TABLE SILVER. 

When choosing her table silver the housekeeper 
realizes that she is purchasing articles that, with 
proper care, will last nearly a life time. In the case 
of solid silver the pieces will be the pride and joy of 
not only her daughters but her grand-daughters as 
well. For this reason it is well to consider the pur- 
chase of silver from other standpoints than the one of 
present economy. 

Poor silverware is an expensive purchase, no mat- 
ter how low the price. 

It is true of silverware, as it ought to be of all 
house furnishings, that, whatever may be the latest 
fads in shapes, good silver is never out of style. The 
housekeeper who is fortunate enough to have her 
grandmother's silver spoons, has something that every 
one recognizes as of greater value and more desirable 
than the newest patterns in the silversmith's stock. 



28 DOMESTIC S CIENCE. 

Every housekeeper should possess a few pieces of 
solid silver plainly marked with her maiden name. 

Teaspoons are very desirable in solid silver, and 
considering the time they will last, if carefully used, 
are not an extravagant purchase. Dessert spoons 
and table spoons should be selected next, then if more 
sterling silverware can be affoded purchase forks. It 
seldom pays to use solid silver knives. 

Heavy plated ware of the best quality is the stand- 
ard goods for the housekeeper. "Rogers 1845" is a 
standard quality that is always to be depended upon. 
"1835 R. Wallace'' is another brand of plated ware 
that is entirely reliable. "Reed and Barton" is an 
old-time favorite and one that the housekeeper has 
always been safe in purchasing. The "R. Wallace" 
silver comes in very artistic designs and closely re- 
sembles the heaviest sterling silver. These reliable 
brands are handled by all dealers in silverware, and 
if the housekeeper will carefully examine the labels 
she will be sure of the best goods. 

Solid silver is more difficult to select, and unless 
the dealer can be absolutely relied upon, it is the 
part of wise economy to send direct to one of the old 
reliable silversmiths for the goods. There are two very 
old firms in Massachusetts, that date back to Colonial 
times, that are very satisfactory to deal with. They 
are: Baird-North, Silversmiths, Salem, Mass.; and 
Daniel Lowe, Silversmiths, Salem, Mass. These firms 
send illustrated catalogues free and carry every de- 
sirable line of good silver. Baird-North carries "R. 
Wallace" plated ware at very reasonable prices. 

In selecting solid silver, the price will be governed 
by the weight and the amount of carving or "die 
work," 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 29 

The following prices of standard weight sterling 
silver will be helpful to the uninitiated : 

Teaspoons per doz., $10.00; 

Dessert spoons, per pair, $3.50; 

Table spoons, per pair, $5.00; 

Table forks, each, $2.25; 

Dessert forks, each, $2.00 ; 

Butter knife, $1.50 to $2.00; 

Sugar spoon, $1.50 to $2.00; 

Much higher prices may be paid, but these are the 
prices of standard good weight goods. 

Plated ware varies in price according to the 
amount of silver used in plating and the kind of metal 
used for the foundation of the piece. 

The best silver is plated on a white metal called 
"albata." The mark, "A. 1," on silver shows that the 
piece is plated on the best quality of "albata" or white 
metal. This albata is a mixture of nickel, zinc and 
copper. 

The plated ware that has the largest sale is called 
"extra A. 1." Teaspoons being further marked "No. 
2," means that two ounces of silver is used in plating 
a gross of teaspoons. Table spoons and forks marked 
"No. 4," have four ounces of silver plating per gross. 
"Double plate" uses twice as much silver in plating 
as is used in plating "extra." "Triple plate" has three 
times as much silver as extra. "Quadruple" has four 
times as much silver as extra. 

Some makes of silver have an extra plating on tines 
of forks and on the point of spoon bowls where the 
heaviest wear is borne. 

The following are prices of standard "R. Wallace 
1835" plate in very pretty patterns and good shapes: 

Teaspoons, $2.50 per doz; 

Dessert spoons, 75c per pr., $1.00 per dozen; 



3 o DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



Table spoons, 90c per pi\, $4.50 per doz; 

Table forks, $4.50 per doz; 

Hollow handle table knives, $10.00 per doz; 

Sugar spoons, 50c each; 

Butter knives, 50c each; 

Pie servers, $1.50 each. 

Knives and forks are of harder metal than spoons. 
Many housekeepers prefer steel bladed knives to use 
when meat is served, as they have better edges for 
cutting than the silver plated knife has. These steel 
blades may have handles of white bone, deer horn, 
solid rubber, or celluloid; or the handles may be silver 
plated if preferred. These steel knives, if given 
proper care, will last nearly a life time. 

The only other important silverware always consid- 
ered in good taste is the tea set, or sugar and creamer. 
The use of silver cake basket, butter dish, etc., changes 
according to fashion. At present they are not regarded 
as "in style" any more than the large silver castor. 
Silver salt and pepper shakers are always in good 
taste. 

REVIEW OF CHAPTER 111. 

1. What are the relative advantages and disad- 
vantages of solid and plated ware? 

2. (a) What are the general characteristics of 
good linen? (b) Why are "stock" patterns preferable 
to special patterns? 

3. (a) What are the characteristics of tin 1 din- 
ing room furnishings? (1>) Explain reasons. 

4. What can you say of light and ventilation in 
dining room as compared with that of kitchen? 

5. (a) Discuss the floor covering for the dining- 
room, (b) Compare the use of polished floor and 
rugs with the use of carpet. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 31 

Chapter IV. 
SITTING ROOM FURNISHINGS. 

Fashions change frequently in regard to the fur- 
nishings of the parlor and the sitting room. For this 
reason it does not seem advisable to> give exhaustive 
rules for their fitting and arrangement, A few gen 
eral suggestions, however, may be of value. 

All the great artists of the world agree with the 
famous English author, Ruskin, that "There is no 
true beauty without simplicity." The great Michael 
Angelo said "Beauty comes through the purgation of 
superfluities." 

For this reason avoid the overcrowding of a room 
with furniture; better have too few pieces than too 
many. Do not hang too many pictures on the walls; 
better have one really good reproduction of a famous 
picture than many pictures that are meaningless. Do 
not use elaborate curtains, nor have them draped in 
such a way as to be "dust catchers" and excluders of 
air and sunlight. Avoid a multitude of little mean- 
ingless ornaments. Keepsakes and articles of no real 
artistic merit had better be kept in the privacy of one's 
own room. Do not furnish your sitting room just as 
your neighbor does hers; let it express your own in- 
dividuality and the needs of your own family. The 
term "easy chair" is often a misnomer; the so-called 
easy chair is sometimes anything but what its name 
would imply. The chair has no reason for existence 
other than to support the human body so that it may 
rest. The buck of the chair must lie at a proper angle 
with (he seat. The seat nuisl be of proper depth and 
shape. The arms, if any, must not be too high. 

Remember that a sitting room that contains a book 



32 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



case filled with good books will have an air of distinc- 
tion and refinement, even though the furniture be the 
plainest, that an elaborately furnished room without 
the books can not have. 

Unless the room is a large one the carpet and wall 
paper should be in small pattern. It should be borne 
in mind that the floor and walls are a back ground for 
the inmates of the room and for the furniture, and 
they should be selected accordingly. 

The floor should have the darkest color of any part 
of the room. 

If the material of the floor is good it should be pol- 
ished or stained and a large rug used. Should the pol- 
ished floor be an impossibility, or for any resaon be not 
desired, then carpets must be used; but the room with 
the bare floor is much easier kept free from dust, 
germs and odors than the one provided with carpets. 

The most satisfactory carpet for common use is the 
wool Ingrain or "two-ply." This weave of carpet is 
always a yard wide and is reversible, one side being 
lighter than the other. The heavy all-wool ingrain is 
easily swept and cleaned and is very durable. In- 
grains are now woven in as pretty patterns, and come 
in as artistic colors, as the more expensive carpets. 
The Ingrain is the most desirable carpet for dining 
rooms and sleeping rooms. The best Ingrains come 
with borders and can be made into very desirable cen- 
ter rugs. 

The other carpets commonly found in use are only 
three-fourths of a yard wide and can be used on one 
side only. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 33 

Of these there are two weaves : 

First, Brussels weave, — the pile formed of little 
loops of yarn ; 

Second, Velvet weave, — these loops are cut, giving 
a pile like plush or velvet. 

Tapestry Brussels has a little different weave from 
regular Brussels, and is not quite so desirable. 

The five frame body Brussels is the standard car- 
pet for the parlor and sitting room. It is durable and 
comes in beautiful colors and patterns. The latest 
designs are quite small figures and very rich colors. 
All styles come with borders and make handsome cen- 
ter rugs. 

Velvet carpets of the cheaper grades are rather 
loosely woven and are not as durable as the regular 
Brussels, neither are the patterns quite as desirable. 

The Ajiiiinstcr is a very desirable velvet carpet, 
with a soft, deep pile, and comes in exquisite colors. 
Such a carpet lasts many years. 

Wilton carpets have a very deep, thick pile and are 
one of the most durable carpets woven. The patterns 
are artistic and the colors rich and beautiful. Both the 
Axminster and the Wilton carpets are hard to sweep. 

All Biglow carpets of whatever weave are safe to 
buy and the housekeeper may feel sure that she is get- 
ting the best goods for her money when she has the 
Biglow factory mark on her carpet. 

3 



3^ DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



The average prices of standard carpets follow : 

Ingrain, 70c to 90c; 

Tapestry, 90c to $1.15; 

Velvet Brussels, $1.00 to $1.50; 

Biglow body Brussels, $1.50 to $2.50; 

Axminster, $2.50 and up; 

Wilton, $3.00 and up. 

Mattings of good quality are very desirable for 
floor covering in bedrooms, and for summer use in 
sitting rooms. They make a, very sanitary floor cov- 
ering as they are non-absorbent and the closely woven 
kinds are impervious to dust. The best grades of 
Japanese mattings are durable if covered with rugs 
at the places where the hardest wear comes. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER IV. 

1. Why are the elaborately draped window cur- 
tains and portiers unsanitary? 

2. Give all the points you can in favor of a simply 
furnished sitting room. 

3. What objections could you make to a great 
multiplicity of ornaments in the sitting room? 

4. (a) What are the characteristics of Ingrain 
carpets, and (b) how do they differ from Brussels? 

5. What influence are books and pictures in the 
sitting room apt to have upon the family? 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 35 

Chapter V. 
BEDROOM FURNISHINGS. 

Here is another place where the keynote of beauty 
must be simplicity and suitability. The bedroom is 
principally a place for rest and sleep, and must be 
furnished accordingly. About one-third of the twenty- 
four hours is spent in sleep, therefore the sanitary 
conditions of the bedroom must be considered when se- 
lecting- the furnishings. 

The most important considerations in the sleeping 
room are an abundance of pure air and plenty of sun- 
shine; and the furnishings must in no way interfere 
with their presence in the room. If possible the floor 
should be bare, excepting for the presence of a few 
rugs, so as to be easily kept free from dust and germs. 
If the floor is at all good it can be painted without 
much expense. With two or three rugs this will help 
make a tidy, pleasing room and render it very easily 
cleaned. If the floor material is too rough to use bare, 
good Japanese matting makes a desirable covering; it 
will not absorb odors and organic matter, and the dust 
is easily wiped from its surface. This matting, to- 
gether with a few rugs, is quite ideal for a bedroom. 

The Woodwork should be plain and of smooth finish, 
so that dust will find no lodging places. Light colored 
woodwork is preferable to dark. 

The Walls may be finished in any desirable way so 
that they are smooth and non-absorbent. Wall paper 
with high colors, especialty green, should be avoided 
for fear of arsenic poisoning. 

The Win doirs must open easily and should provide 
especially for lowering from the top. They must be 



36 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

provided with good screens in the summer to bar, as 
far as possible, against flies and mosquitoes, as both 
are instrumental in the spreading of disease. 

Good Shades at the windows are, of course, indis- 
pensable. Pretty drapery curtains of any washable 
material may be used. These curtains must be draped 
in a simple manner so as not unduly to hold dust or in- 
terfere with the entrance of fresh air and sunshine. 

The Bed is the most important of the pieces of fur- 
niture in the sleeping room. It is wise economy to 
buy a good, strong, metal bed. The white enamel 
with brass furnishings is the most satisfactory in the 
long run. One soon tires of the fancy colored beds. 
Be sure that the bed is strongly and firmly braced. 
The metal bed is more sanitary than the wood bed, 
more easily kept clean and free from insects. 

Strong, well sustained Springs that will not sag 
too readily with use are very necessary. It is economy 
to purchase good springs in the first place, as one 
good set will outlast several cheap sets. 

The Mattress must be of a sanitary character, 
made of good, firm material that will not retain the 
organic matter thrown off from the body. If a really 
good mattress can not be afforded a very cheap one 
may be used and renewed when worn. 

The bed must not be too hard nor too soft. If too 
hard it supports the body at too few points, which 
does not permit the muscles to perfectly relax; con- 
sequently the individual awakens in the morning 
tired and worn out, rather than refreshed. If the bed 
is too soft the body sinks into it and the body vapors 
are retained injuriously near the skin. 

The best mattress is made of curled hair. The very 
finest hair for this use comes from the manes and tails 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 37 

of the wild horses of South America. This hair is 
twisted into ropes and then heated to keep the "curl" 
as well as to insure cleanliness. 

Gray hair is the natural hair slightly bleached. 
Black hair is dyed, and the white hair is fully 
bleached. The latter is usually the most expensive. 

These mattresses vary in price from twenty dol- 
lars up to seventy-five, according to the quality of 
hair, the way in which the mattress is made and the 
quality of the cover. There are hair mattresses in the 
market as cheap as seven dollars, but they are made 
from mixed hair and are not durable. They soon 
pack badly and become lumpy. 

All hair mattresses should be renovated to remove 
the dust, once in two or three years. 

Wool mattresses, as commonly found in furnish- 
ing houses, are made of old clothing' and the waste 
from woolen factories, and are very unsanitary. The 
excelsior or corn husk mattresses are the most desira- 
ble from the standpoint of health, as they are absolute- 
ly clean when new and so cheap that they can be thrown 
aside when dusty and unevenly worn. These mat- 
tresses may have a cotton top, or a separate cotton pad 
may be made to put on the husk mattress. Mattresses 
should be made in two sections so as to be reversed, 
thus insuring uniform wear. A mattress cover should 
be used to protect the ticking and to help keep out 
dust. 

Pillows should be of the best quality of sterilized 
geese feathers. Very large pillows are not desirable 
as they throw the head too high and thus tend to pro- 
duce curvature of the spine. Twenty-two by thrity 
inches is a good shape for a pillow and one and three- 
fourths pounds each is a very satisfactory weight, 



38 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

Blankets are an important part of the furnishings 
of the bed. Good wool blankets last many years if 
well cared for. The light gray blanket with blue 
bands is very satisfactory. White blankets are very 
desirable for the dainty bed of a young - lady's room, 
and for the guest chamber, but soil too easily for 
rooms subject to hard usage 

Blankets are the most sanitarily ideal bedding 
that can be used ; they are so porous as to permit the 
body exhalations to pass out readily. 

Good wool blankets may be purchased for six dol- 
lars and heavier ones for from eight dollars up. 

All bedding should be porous and as light as is 
(•(insistent with warmth. Heavy bedding, and bedding 
covered with closely woven material, are unsanitary. 
Besides fatiguing the body with its weight, it re- 
tards the circulation of the blood and obstructs the 
escape of exhalations from. the skin. 

Comforts of good quality of wool batting, covered 
with silkolene, challis, cheese cloth, or some other 
light weight, open material, make an ideal bed cov- 
ering for the colder weather. They should weigh 
about three pounds each. The best grade of cotton 
batting also makes very desirable comforters. An old 
fashioned patchwork quilt, if thin, makes an admir- 
able bed covering for the warmer weather. 

Bed Spreads in white Marseilles are a very satis- 
factory outer covering for the bed and are always in 
good taste no matter how the fashions may change. 
As such spreads can be boiled, one may be sure of their 
absolute cleanliness. 

Prices of such spreads range from one dollar fifty 
cents to twelve dollars, or more, according to quality. 
There are many other styles of bed spreads on the 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 39 

market, but none so durable and generally satisfac- 
tory as the white Marseilles spreads. 

Sheets may be purchased ready made for little 
more than the cost of the sheeting by the yard. If 
a housekeeper likes sheets especially long she will be 
obliged to make them at home, as the ready-made 
sheets are usually of short lengths. 

The standard length for sheets is two ami one-half 
yards after hemming. Nine quarters is the proper 
width for a double bed. Such sheets of excellent 
quality and very well made can be purchased for 
eighty-five cents each. Four sheets should be al- 
lowed for each bed and several extra ones for general 
use in case of sickness or accident. 

Pillow Mips, ready-made and of very good quality, 
range in price from twenty to thirty cents each. Much 
higher priced bed linen in hemstitched and embroi- 
dered goods can be obtained, but the prices quoted 
give very satisfactory linen for standard use. 

Another article of bedroom linen to be considered 
is towels, of which there should be a generous quantity. 
The bath or Turkish towels should be of good size 
and rather closely woven; the loose ones do not wear 
well. Twenty-five or thirty cents each will buy good 
ones. 

Towels are of two general classes, damask and 
huckaback. The "Huck" towels, if good linen, are the 
best and most durable for common use. The j>eculiar 
weave gives a slight roughness to the surface which 
increases its absorbent qualities and gives a slight 



4 o DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



and beneficial friction to the skin. Real linen "Huck" 
towels of good quality range from thirty to fifty cents 
each, while the very finest grass bleach of large size 
will cost one dollar to one dollar and seventy-five cents 
each. 

"Damask" towels have smooth surface and usually 
come in beautiful designs, but do not stand usage as 
well as the "Huck" towels. 

Hemstitched ends are preferable to fringe. 

Damask towels vary in price, according 1 to size, 
quality of linen, and fineness of weave, from thirty 
cents to two dollars each. 

Cotton or half cotton towels are poor economy 
even though purchased, very cheaply. They are not 
pleasant to use and soon look dingy even with care- 
ful laundering. 

Articles of furniture in the bedroom, besides the 
bed, should be dresser, commode, and a small table, if 
the room is large enough to accommodate it. A chif- 
fonier may be added if needed, and a wardrobe must 
be provided if there is no clothes closet opening from 
the room. These pieces of furniture will be selected 
according to individual taste and the amount of money 
to be spent in furnishing the room. Good material 
and good workmanship should always be preferred to 
elaborate design or style. One easy chair in the bed- 
room is desirable, and one or two plain chairs will be 
necessary. No upholstered furniture, or thick, heavy 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 41 

hangings that will absorb odors and harbor dust and 
germs, should be allowed in the sleeping room. 

The Toilet Utensils, wash bowl, water pitcher, etc., 
should be of color and quality to harmonize with the 
rest of the room. A really good set in semi-porcelain 
can be purchased for three or four dollars, while good 
china sets will cost from ten dollars up. Hand deco- 
rated sets are, of course, much more costly. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS ON FURNISHINGS. 

Time will not be taken to discuss exhaustively the 
general furnishings of parlor, library, etc., but a few 
fundamental principles may be studied to advantage. 
Each article of furniture must be useful and suited 
to its use. 

Chairs are to support the body in a comfortable 
and restful position. If they are not of proper shape, 
size, and strength they fall short of their intended 
service and have no reason for their presence in the 
room. 

Footstools are to rest the feet upon; if made too 
light to bear the weight of the foot, or if covered with 
a material too delicate for the foot to touch, they also 
fail in the object for which they were provided. 

Tables are to support a weight, such as books, 
dishes, etc. They must be strong enough to support 
any weight likely to be placed upon them, and their 
build should show this strength. Every table should 
be braced in such a way as not to tip over easily. 



42 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

Cheap machine carving on all furniture should be 
avoided. It is difficult to keep free from dust, and 
it proclaims the cheapness of the furniture. 

Sofa pillows are for use and not for ornament; 
if too delicate or elaborate to be used, there is no 
reason for their existence. 

Every article in the house, whether designed for 
use or for ornament, must be of recognized utility or 
must furnish an aesthetic outlook for the mind, as a 
picture or a piece of statuary. 

Finally, and all the time, avoid overcrowding 
rooms or walls. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER V. 

1. (a) Where should the bedroom be located? 
(b) Give reasons for your answer. 

2. In what general ways should the bedroom dif- 
fer from the sitting room ? 

'A. Figure out the cost of furnishing a bedroom 
in a style in keeping with an income of seventy-five 
dollars a month. 

4. Discuss the mattress as an important part of 
the bedroom furnishings. 

5. (a) What must be the characteristics of the 
bed covering? (b) Give reasons for your answer. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 43 

Chapter VI. 

ROUTINE OF HOUSEWORK. 

Order and system in the performance of the various 
duties of housekeeping are as essential to the comfort 
of the housekeeper and her family as they are to the 
successful management of any line of business. In order 
to work easily one must work systematically. A con- 
slant repetition of any sort of act in the same way 
enables one to perform the act with less thought and 
effort and in less time. 

There are so many different lines of work in house- 
keeping 1 that it is very essential that they all be ar- 
ranged to work harmoniously together; hence there 
must be a regular routine of duties for each day and 
also for each week. This routine and system must not 
be so ironclad that it can not be varied under any 
circumstances, for the house is "kept" for the comfort 
of its inmates; but under all ordinary circumstances 
the routine should be adhered to. 

There is no home so uncomfortable as the one 
where the work is "done just as it conies handy," and 
without a carefully arranged plan of work. 

Each home has problems peculiar to itself, so each 
housekeeper will have to arrange the routine of her 
work to suit the specific conditions of her own house- 
hold. 

If the housekeeper has the services of a maid she 
must plan the routine of her work and insist that it be 
carefully carried out. But if she does her own work, 
especially if she has young children' to care for, she 
will necessarily choose different hours for parts of the 
work than she would choose if she had help with her 
household duties. However, in spite of these varia- 
tions in circumstances, there can be a certain uniform- 



44 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

ity in plans, and the following routines of work may 
be suggestive and helpful to young housekeepers : 

Monday, , 1 , Washing; 

Tuesday, half of ironing; 

Wednesday, remainder of ironing; 

Thursday, ..,.., sweeping bedrooms; 

Friday,, .sweeping sitting and dining rooms; 

Saturday, . . . . cleaning kitchen and baking. 
Washing is, for most women, the hardest work of 
the week, so it is not wise to attempt any other special 
work on Monday. The plan of crowding all the hard 
Avork possible into one day, as practiced by many 
housekeepers, is very unwise. Women who work in 
that way usually break down young. A learned physi- 
cian says, "A woman who wishes to keep her health 
and youthful looks should put one day between wash- 
ing and ironing." The suggestion that only half the 
ironing be done on Tuesday, is a good one, for the 
reason that Monday has been a hard day and should 
not be followed by one equally hard. Then, too, the 
afternoons of the ironing days are left for lighter 
tasks which always accumulate on these days of special 
work. This plan avoids the over-fatigue resulting from 
a hard day's ironing and advances the week's work 
just as rapidly. 

The same is true in regard to sircrpuu/; instead of 
sweeping the whole house in one day, clean part of the 
rooms one morning and the rest the next morning. 
This allows time for washing the windows of the 
rooms, and for various odd pieces of work. 

There may be good reasons why the washing should 
be deferred until Tuesday instead of being done on 
Monday, but as a general rule Monday is the desirable 
day for that work. When Sunday is a day of rest the 
housekeeper should be better prepared to do hard work 
on Monday than on any day not preceded by a rest 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 45 

day. It is seldom wise to wait for a pleasant day to 
wash, for taking the year together there are as many 
pleasant Mondays as pleasant other days. 

Silver cleaning may be done on Thursday, once a 
month. 

If the young housekeeper will try this plan she will 
soon see that she can accomplish the work more satis- 
factorily, and with less fatigue, than as if no methodic 
scheme were followed. 

The following suggestive routine may be found 
helpful for daily use : 

iiemove ashes from kitchen stove; 

Blacken stove if necessary; 

Build lire; 

Kinse and fill teakettle; 

Air kitchen; 

Start fires in other parts of house; 

Wipe up stoves and zincs; 

Air sitting and dining rooms and halls; 

Start breakfast; 

Set table; 

Serve breakfast; 

Clear table and tidy dining room; 

Put sitting room in order; 

Examine refrigerator and cupboards; 

Start dinner, if necessary; 

Wash dishes; 

Tidy the kitchen; 

Sweep porches; 

Do chamber work; 

Proceed with special work of the day ; 

Work of lunch or dinner; 

Afternoon duties; 

Work of supper or dinner; 

Make evening preparations for breakfast. 

On washing days make the regular morning rou- 



46 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

tine as light as possible but do not wash in an untidy 
kitchen nor with a table loaded with unwashed dishes. 
The chamber slops must be removed early in the day 
but the rest of the chamber work may wait until later 
without endangering the health or comfort of the 
family. 

Dinner on washing day should be such as not to 
require much time in preparation. Do not indulge 
in a picked up dinner, however, as wash day brings 
inconveniences enough without adding the discom- 
forts of a poor dinner. 

Use the oven if possible for preparing dinner. Po- 
tatoes and meat will bake together. A meat loaf can 
be prepared on Saturday and reheated on Monday. 
A steam pudding prepared on Saturday would be no 
less palatable or wholesome if resteamed on Monday. 
Beans, if properly cooked, make an acceptable vegeta- 
ble for wash day dinner. Boston Brown Bread is 
quickly prepared and will steam on the back of the 
stove and be ready for dinner. A pot roast or braised 
beef makes a very satisfactoiw dish for Monday din- 
ner, and may be prepared without special inconven- 
ience. 

REVIEW OF CHAPTER VI. 

1. Give all the reasons you can for having a de- 
finite plan of housework. 

2. What reasons can you give (a) for and (b) 
against washing on Monday? 

3. What changes would you suggest in the daily 
routine of work as suggested in the foregoing chapter? 
Give reasons. 

4. Plan menu for a wash day dinner that will 
require a minimum of time and work. 

5. Fill in weekly routine of work to suit the needs 
of your own household. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS 47 



Chapter VII. 

METHODS OF HOUSEWORK. 

I. LAUNDERING. 

Washing is such common work that most house- 
keepers think there is but little for them to learn con- 
cerning' it. The housekeeper who is studying Domes- 
tic Science should know more about laundry work 
than the woman who goes out washing. The house- 
keeper must know the "why" and must not be satisfied 
with the result alone. 

White washing, as it is commonly done, is much 
more satisfactory than the colored washing. No mat- 
ter by what method the clothes are washed, they must 
be i lean and white, and have a fresh, sweet odor. The 
process must not be one that will injure the fabric. 

The most common faults in washing white clothes 
are, — 

First, The use of too much alkali ; 
Second, Too hard rubbing; 
Third, Lack of sufficient rinsing water; 
Fourth, Too much bluing. 

Too much lie weakens the fibre of the cloth, turns 
it yellow and gives it a bad odor. 

Too much salsoda (washing soda) whitens the 
clothes beautifully but injures the fabric so as to se- 
riously impair their lasting qualities. 

Too hard rubbing, especially upon delicate fabrics, 
wears the clothes and does not clean them any more 
.easily, more quickly, or more thoroughly than less 
severe treatment. Hard rubbing ruins fine goods, such 
as mull or lawn, by pulling the threads apart. 



4 8 DOMESTIC SCI ENCE. 

If the dirty suds and soap are not well rinsed from 
the clothes with an abundance of clear water the 
clothes will look grimy and are apt to turn yellow 
when ironed. If the soap is allowed to remain in the 
clothes certain kinds of bluing will unite with the 
alkali of the soap and produce a dingy green color in 
the cloth, while other kinds of bluing will leave spots 
like rust. The liquid Prussian bluing contains min- 
eral matter which is decomposed by the alkali of the 
soap and deposits these spots of iron just described. 

Too much bluing is in bad taste. Clothes should 
be blued slightly to prevent their turning yellow, but 
under no circumstances should they look blue. Too 
much bluing is frequently used in an attempt to dis- 
guise poor washing. 

For sanitary reasons all white clothes should be 
boiled. Too long boiling, however, yellows them. 

Table linen should be washed first and boiled by 
itself. 

Handkerchiefs should be soaked in cool water with 
a few drops of carbolic acid to disinfect them before 
they are put with the general wash. 

Tea toioels should be boiled last by themselves. 

STARCHING. 

White clothes should be starched with good laun- 
dry starch; flour starch yellows them. To prepare 
this take one table spoonful of starch to one quart of 
boiling water; mix the starch first with a little cold 
water then add boiling water slowly and stir well to 
prevent lumps; place on the stove and boil for about 
five minutes, stirring well. This cooking prevents the 
starch sticking when the piece is ironed. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS 49 

Use starch hot. If it has been allowed to stand 
and become lumpy and skinny, strain through a wire 
gravy stainer, as it is impossible to iron clothes well 
if they are starched with lumpy starch. 

Rub the starch well into the pieces, being careful 
to starch only the parts that are desired stiff. A lit- 
tle powdered borax in the starch, one teaspoonful to 
one quart of starch, makes the starch stirrer and the 
stiffness more lasting. A few drops of coal oil or a 
tiny piece of wax put in the boiling starch makes 
the cloth easier to iron. 

Boiled starch must be thoroughly dried into the 
piece before it is sprinkled for ironing or the starch 
will stick. 

In Colored Washing danger lies in, — 

First, Too strong- suds; 

Second, Too much lye or washing soda; 

Third, Too hard rubbing; * 

Fourth, Too much boiling. 

The water for washing colored clothes should be 
as clean as is obtainable. It should be softened with 
borax and a suds made by dissolving a moderate 
amount of mild soap in the water. If soap is rubbed 
on the cloth it is apt to fade in streaks. 

Hub the pieces lightly and rinse them at once in 
plenty of clear water. Do not let them lie wet. Dry 
in the shade if the sun is too hot. 

Some colors may be kept from fading by soaking 
the garment in a pail of cold salt water for an hour 
or so before washing. Very delicate colors should not 
be worn until badly soiled as much soap is apt to turn 
the colors. Use some good white soap for the very 
delicate colors. 



50 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



Flannels are frequently shrunk, hardened, and 
discolored in the process of laundering, and colored 
dresses, waists, and aprons are often ruined in the 
wash tub. 

Woolen Underwear, more than almost any other 
class of fabric, requires the most careful laundering - . 



The following outline shows the causes of flannels 
shrinking, hardening, and discoloring: 

hardens wool fibre; 

discolors white wool. 

hardens wool fibre; 

discolors white wool; 

makes wool fibre gummy or sticky. 



Strong lye. . 

Strong ^oap 
or resin soap 



Hard rubbing. 



Excessive heat. .,. 
of water or irons. 

Very hard water., 

Sudden changes 
of temperature. . 

Remaining 

wet too long. . . .,. 

Drying in 

hot sunshine. . . .,. 



mats wool fibres together; 



causes shrinking. 

hardens wool fibre; 

renders goods inelastic ; 

yellows white flannel. 

makes flannel hard and stiff; 

turns white flannel gray and dingy. 

hardens wool fibre; 

renders fibre inelastic ; 

causes goods to shrink. 

hardens fibres; 

causes shrinking. 

hardens fibres; 

yellows white flannel; 

causes unpleasant ordor. 

makes goods dingy; 

causes unpleasant ordor. 

Wool fibre is very different in structure from cot- 
ton fibre, as will be readily seen by examining a shred 



Dirty suds 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 51 

of each under a magnifying glass. This difference in 
structure renders necessary different precautions in 
the treatment of the two fabrics in washing. 

All woolens must be washed in clean water, softened 
with borax or household ammonia. Dissolve good 
wool soap and add to the water. Never rub soap di- 
rectly on woolen goods. Rub very lightly or knead 
and squeeze the dirt out. Rinse each piece as washed 
in clear water of the same temperature as the washing 
suds. Hang out at once. 

Fine white flannel can be kept white and soft until 
entirely worn out if washed as directed. Borax is 
better than ammonia to use with white flannel. Flan- 
nel should be pressed, when nearly dry, with an iron of 
moderate heat. Flannel shirt waists should be pressed 
with a piece of damp cheese cloth between the iron 
and the goods. 

IRONING. 

The most common faults of ironing are : 

First, Careless sprinkling and folding; 

Second, Too hot irons; 

Third, Too light pressure on irons; 

Fourth, Too much rubbing; 

Filth, Pieces hung on top of each other to air. 

Clothes should be sprinkled evenly and rolled 
tightly. They should lie over night to become evenly 
dampened. 

Very hot irons injure the fibre of the cloth, even 
though not hot enough to yellow or scorch the ma- 
terial, and also give an unpleasant odor to the goods. 

All material except the very thinest should be 
ironed with considerable pressure; a light, quick 
movement of the iron makes little impression upon 
the goods. Starched pieces must be ironed with con- 



52 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

siderable pressure until entirely dry, for if left damp 
in tucks, gathers, or folds, they will dry as rough as 
if unironed. Table linen must be made very damp 
and ironed with heavy pressure to give firmness or 
body to the linen. The heavy pressure brings out the 
gloss. Too much rubbing with the iron takes the body 
out of the linen and leaves it limp and cheap looking. 
Too much rubbing in ironing starched goods, in fact, 
takes the starch out of the goods and leaves them limp. 
Collars, cuffs and shirt fronts are an exception to this 
rule, as they are starched so stiff that the rubbing does 
not make them limp, but produces a gloss on the sur- 
face. 

When clothes are ironed they should not be folded 
too closely and should be hung on line or bars to dry 
and air. If the pieces are piled too closely on the bars 
they wrinkle in drying. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER VII. 

1. (a) Which require the greater care in launder- 
ing, white goods, colored goods or flannels? (b) 
Give reasons for your answer. 

2. What special care does table linen require in 
washing and ironing? 

3. (live the effects of too much lye upon ( a ) white, 
(b) colored, and (c) woolen clothes. 

4. (a) What are the reasons for bluing clothes? 
( b) Give cure necessary in rinsing tin 1 clothes on ac- 
count of effect on bluing and explain. 

5. (a) How should the wash be sorted? (b) 
Give reasons, (c) What are the objections to wash- 
ing colored clothes after the white ones are out of the 
suds? 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 53 

Chapter VIII. 

METHODS OF HOUSEWORK (Continued). 

SWEEPING. 

The principal faults in sweeping- as it is likely to be 
done are: 

First, The broom held improperly; 

Second, Not sufficient pressure to remove dust; 

Third, Too heavy stroke; 

Fourth, Dust flirted into air by wrong] stroke. 

There are two general methods of sweeping; name- 
ly, the method adapted to smooth floors, and that 
adapted to carpets. 

In sweeping a smooth floor a soft broom should be 
used, a long, light stroke taken and the dirt drawn 
forward. In sweeping a carpet a slightly staffer 
broom is needed. The stroke must be short with suf- 
ficient pressure to bring the dust out of the fibres of 
the carpet. 

In sweeping any kind of a floor sweep from the 
outer walls to the center; never drag the dirt from the 
center of the room. When the dirt is collected in the 
center of the room take it up with a dust pan and brush 
and burn it. If floor sweepings can not be burned keep 
them in some receptacle until they can be properly 
disposed of. Never sweep the dust out of doors to be 
blown about and returned to the house. 

A carpet may be kept tidy by running a carpet 
sweeper over it each day. A sweeper removes the dust 
and litter from the surface but does not take the dust 
out of the carpet; consequently a good sweeping with 
a broom is needed weekly or once in two weeks, accord- 
ing to the use made of the room, to properly clean the 



54 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

carpet. While the sweeper will not take the place of 
the broom a good sweeper is of inestimable value to 
the housekeeper who has many carpets to swoop; it 
makes practically no dust and is a great saving of time 
and strength. The sweeper is also a great aid on gen- 
eral sweeping day; the dust which settles back to the 
carpet after a heavy sweeping can be taken up in the 
sweeper. 

Various substances may be used to lay the dust 
when sweeping, but anything that prevents the removal 
of the dust from tin 1 carpet and from the room is ob- 
jectionable. Salt should never be used; it settles into 
the fibres of the carpet and collects nioisutre from the 
air, often causing the carpet to become musty or even 
mouldy. Damp tea leaves are useful to prevent dust 
from Hying. Crumpled newspapers, dampened and torn 
into rather large pieces, collects the dust well and 
leaves no spots on the carpet. Damp saw dust, if 
coarse and free from dust, is very good to keep down 
the dust of sweeping. 

Rugs should be rolled up on the floor and carried 
from the room. To clean them lay face down in a 
clean place and beat the backs, then turn over and 
brush off the dust." Heavy rugs are ruined by shaking. 

The stained floor should be swept with a brush, 
then wiped up with a soft (doth with the least possible 
amount of oil on it, just enough to collect the dust. 

DUSTING. 

The prime object of dusting is to remove the dust 
from the room in order to secure sanitary cleanliness, 
and not to brush the dust off for appearance's. sake. 

A feather duster or dust brush must never be used 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 55 

as the dust is simply scattered about to settle else- 
where. A soft cloth (cheese cloth is good) should be 
used aud the dust wiped up, not flirted about. The 
dust cloth must be shaken out of doors frequently 
during- the dusting process. It may be dampened very 
slightly whereupon it will remove the dust more 
thoroughly. Dust cloths should be frequently laun- 
dered. 

Some preparation for sweeping that will make it 
easier may be made before commencing the work. Dust 
the movable pieces of furniture and place them in 
another room. Other pieces of furniture should be 
covered and the covers not removed until the dust has 
settled. These provisions greatly lighten the work of 
dusting besides preserving the furniture. Cheap pri,nt 
sewed together makes good covers for this purpose; 
or Avorn sheets may be used. 

Cobwebs and dust should be removed from the 
walls by means of a canton flannel bag or dust cloth 
fastened on the broom. Pictures on the walls should 
be dusted top and back each sweeping day. After 
sweeping, the window blinds should be wiped off and 
the window draperies shaken before the final dusting 
is done. If windows are carefully dusted, both sash 
and glass, they will not need washing so frequently. 

CHAMBER WORK. 

The most important observations to be followed 
in the care of the bed room are, — 

First, Keep the room, the bed and bedding thorough- 
ly aired; 

Second, Keep room, bed and bedding free from 
dust. 



56 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

The general work of caring for bed rooms may be 
discussed under the following- heads : 

1. Airing beds; 

2. Oaring for slops and toilet articles; 

3. Putting away clothing; 

4. Making beds; 

5. Sweeping and dusting. 

Each member of the family should be taught to put 
the bed to air and to open the windows before leaving 
the room, as a thorough airing of the room is essential 
to the health and comfort of its occupants. Never 
make up a bed while it is warm and damp with the ex- 
halations from the body. Many housekeepers think 
it a mark of a good housekeeper to have the beds made 
up early in the morning, when in reality it is very un- 
cleanly to do so. The bedding should be thrown over 
chairs so that fresh air can penetrate every part of it. 
Sheets should be placed in sunshine if possible. Let 
the bedding air as long as it conveniently can. 

BED MAKING. 

It requires skill to make a bed so that it is both 
comfortable to sleep in and tidy in appearance. 

A few hints may be helpful : — 

First, See that the mattress is smooth. 

Second, Spread sheets with wide hems at head, — 
upper sheet hemmed side up, under sheet hemmed side 
down. 

Third, See that under sheet is smooth and tucked 
firmly under at top and foot. Upper sheet must be 
tucked firmly under at foot. 

Fourth, Spread blankets with open ends at head 
tucked firmly under at foot. 

Fifth, Tuck other bedding in at foot and sides. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 57 

Sixth, adjust outside spread so the bed presents a 
smooth, orderly appearance. 

Seventh, Beat up pillows and place smoothly and 
tidily at head of bed. 

CARE OF CHAMBER UTENSILS. 

Chamber utensils should be properly cared for, — 
First, To prevent danger to health ; 
Second, To prevent bad odor in room ; 
Third, To secure aesthetic cleanliness. 

Chamber slops should be emptied as early in the 
morning as possible. The slop jar should be rinsed, 
sunned and aired, also scalded occasionally, and not 
infrequently treated with some disinfectant. 

The chamber should be emptied, rinsed, wiped dry 
and left open to air. The cover should be wiped dry. 
All such articles should be washed once a week in hot 
soap suds. There is not the slightest excuse for an 
ill-smelling chamber. 

Towels and face cloths must be hung up so they 
will dry. 

If there is the slightest danger of the bed being in- 
fected with insects, examine it carefully each morn- 
ing. "Eternal vigilance" is the only price of victory 
in this matter. If strangers or travelers come to tho 
house they are likely to bring them in their clothing, 
so the bed should be examined. 

If the insects have secured a lodging in the wood 
work, paint or varnish is sure destruction to them. 
One of the surest ways to rid a bedstead of the pcsls 
is to varnish it, carefully filling cracks and rough 
places. Corrosive sublimate, turpentine, coal -oil and 
various other substances may be used but nothing else 
is so thorough and sure as paint or varnish. 



58 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

AIRING CLOTHING. 

In one's zeal to keep the bed room tidy the wear- 
ing apparel must not be hung away in wardrobe or 
clothes closet, after it has been worn, until it has been 
thoroughly aired and the body odor removed from it. 
The dust, also, should be removed from clothing by 
thorough beating and cleaning, before it is hung away 
with other clothing. Germs are ever present in the 
dust, so it must be removed from the clothing. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER VIII. 

1. How should the broom be held to remove the 
dust from a carpet without needlessly scattering it 
about the room? 

2. What is the best way to keep the dust down 
while sweeping? 

3. (a) What are the advantages of a carpet 
sweeper; and (b) what objections are there to its use? 

4. Why do the bed, bedding and sleeping room "re- 
quire such careful attention? 

5. (a) When should the chamber work be lone? 
(b) Explain. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 59 

Chapter IX. 

GENERAL CLEANING. 

It is said that there are three kinds of cleanliness; 
viz., sanitary cleanliness, the kind of cleanliness that 
promotes health ; aesthetic cleanliness, keeping clean 
for the outward appearance; and traditional cleanli- 
ness, cleaning from force of habit; because our mothers 
did ; because it is the regular day for cleaning, without 
considering whether the cleaning is necessary or not. 

The first form mentioned is all important, and 
consists in the removal of all kinds of dust and dirt 
that might in any way prove injurious to the health. 

The second form will usually accompany the first, 
but does not do so in all cases. The health of the fam- 
ily will not suffer if the windows are not polished 
every week; if the kitchen floor is not scrubbed to 
snowy whiteness; if every hand towel or tea towel is 
not immaculate. But the health of the family will 
suffer if the dust is not kept out of the house; if the 
kitchen sink is not kept clean; if any decaying organic 
matter is permitted to remain in kitchen or cellars; 
and if grease spots, loaded with germs, are allowed to 
remain on floor, or carpet, or clothing. 

The third form, — cleaning when not necessary, but 
because it is the regular day, is a wicked waste of 
strength and time. 

All kinds of cleaning, whether it be the skin of the 
body, the clothing, the wood work, or the dishes, con- 
sists of two distinct operations, viz, the removal of 
the oily or sticky matter that causes the dirt and dust 
to adhere, and the mechanical removal of the dirt and 
dust. 



6o DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

Sticky substances that hold the dust and dirt are 
usually some form of sweet, — sugar, syrup, honey or 
fruit juice. These are readily dissolved and washed 
away by the use of hot water. 

In cases where the dirt is held by oily substances, 
soap or some other form of alkali must be used with 
the hot water to cut the grease. When the grease is 
removed the dirt is easily rinsed out with water and 
slight friction. 

For removing other forms of dirt, friction with fine 
sand or chalk is the best method. 

More definite directions will be discussed for 
cleaning the various parts of the house, as, first, 
Floors; second, Wood Work; third, Walls; fourth, 
Windows; fifth, Removal of Spots and Stains. 

FLOOR. 

The method of cleaning the floor will vary with 
its material and finish. 

A plain wood floor is kept white by scrubbing with 
fine sand and plenty of cool water. Very hot water 
and lye or soap yellow the wood. 

The painted floor must not have soap or lye used 
on it as they soften the paint and it soon wears off. 
Paint must not be scrubbed. All that is necessary to 
clean the painted floor is warm water and a soft cloth. 
Warm skim milk removes the dirt and leaves the floor 
bright. 

Neither soap, lye nor scrubbing brush should be 
used ou linoleum or floor oilcloth. It may be washed 
in the manner suggested for the painted floor. The 
best method, however, is to wash the linoleum with a 
pail of hot water containing two tablespoonfuls of 
coal oil, using a flannel cloth. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 61 

WOOD WORK. 

If hard oil finish, wood work requires wiping with 
a cloth and the least possible amount of oil. If var- 
nished with good varnish it may be washed lightly 
with clear, warm water and immediately wiped with 
a soft, dry cloth, or it may be rubbed with some good 
furniture polish. 

Common painted wood work should be washed with 
clear, warm water and a little household ammonia or 
borax. Soap, lye, or washing soda must not be used, 
as they tend to remove the paint or to spoil its gloss. 
If there are marks that water alone will not remove, 
apply a little whiting or pumice stone, then rinse off 
well. Care must be taken in washing paint not to 
have the cloth wet enough to drip, and after washing 
to wipe dry at once with a soft cloth. The paint looks 
streaky if water is permitted to dry on it. 

WALLS. 

Whitewashed or calcimined walls are renewed by 
sweeping them off, and applying fresh wash. 

Painted walls are washed in the same manner as 
painted wood work. 

Walls covered with varnished paper or with oil 
(doth are cleaned in the same way as painted wood 
work. 

Papered walls and ceiling are swept with a cloth 
or bag over a broom. Sweep with a straight stroke 
and even pressure from the ceiling to the baseboards. 
Also sweep the ceiling. 

Soiled, smoky, or smutty spots can be rubbed off 
with a piece of stale bread or powdered chalk. Corn 
meal or bran is sometimes helpful. 

Grease spots can sometimes be removed by hold- 



62 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



ing a piece of blotting- paper against the spot and ap- 
plying a warm flat-iron to the blotter. 

A discolored spot on the wall paper may be cov- 
ered with a new piece, carefully matched in. Fade the 
piece in the sunshine if necessary. 

WINDOWS. 

Windows are successfully cleaned by washing- with 
clear water and household ammonia. Wipe with a 
dry cloth and polish with soft paper. 

The work of cleaning windows is lightened by us- 
ing whiting made into a paste by mixing with alcohol 
or ammonia. Hub this paste well over the window 
and let dry; then polish with cloth and paper. A 
large chamois skin is very desirable for polishing 
windows, but cloth and soft paper give almost as sat- 
isfactory results. 

Alcohol is excellent to use in cleaning windows in 
cold weather; it keeps the frost from forming on the 
glass. 

Soap or lye of any kind must not be used; it will 
soften the putty and injure tin 1 paint on the sash. 

Window glass sometimes becomes milky looking on 
the outside, through the action of the weather on the 
material composing the glass. A little hydrochloric 
acid and water, or a very strong- vinegar, will often 
its I ore the brilliancy to the glass. 

REMOVAL OF SPOTS AND STAINS. 

Many spots are merely dust or dirt held into the 
fabric by some sticky substance or by grease; hence 
the first step is to remove the substance that holds 
in the dirt. Hot water will dissolve any sweet, sticky 
substance, and some form of alkali with hot water 
will remove grease. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 63 

There are other stains, however, that do not come 
under these two classes. In fruit stains the coloring 
matter is held in by a gummy substance in the fruit. 
This substance is soluble in boiling water; and when 
the gum is cut the color is washed away with the 
water. The fruit stain is more easily removed if 
treated before drying. Spread the cloth over a pan 
or bowl; being- sure the water is boiling, hold the tea- 
kettle up above the stain to be removed, so that the 
water may fall with force and wash out the color. 

Tea and coffee stains are treated in the same way 
as fruit stains. 

Cocoa stains must be washed out with cool water 
before being put into the suds. 

Some medicine stains, iodine, for example, can be 
removed by soaking in alcohol. 

Grass stains are easily removed by soaking in al- 
cohol, as that is a solvent of chlorophyl, the green 
coloring matter of the plants. Coal oil is efficient in 
removing grass stains. Another method is to soak 
the stain in sweet milk, then wash in cool, soapy 
water and put through the regular laundry process. 

Ink stains are easily removed if taken before the 
stain is dry. Cold or tepid water, or cold milk, will 
not set the stain; so remove as much of the ink as pos- 
sible with one of these before it dries. Then soak longer 
in sweet or sour milk. A half day's soaking in sour 
milk will often remove quite bad ink stains. 

Ink stains on white goods will often yield to an 
application of lemon juice and table salt; place in the 
sun during treatment. 

Oxalic acid sometimes removes ink stains if used 
in this way; spread the cloth over a bowl of hot water, 
wet the spot in the hot water and apply either the 
crystals, or a strong solution of the acid. Rinse the 



6 4 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

acid out in hot water, and if the spot has not disap- 
peared apply the acid again. Rinse well in clear 
water first, and then in water with a little baking soda 
or ammonia to neutralize the acid. 

Very obstinate stains of any kind on white goods 
may be bleached with a little chloride of lime and 
water. Rinse out thoroughly to prevent injury to the 
fabric. 

Iron rust can usually be removed with oxalic acid 
used as described above. Sometimes rust spots will 
yield to lemon juice and salt. 

Acid stains on colored goods may be removed by 
sponging carefully with diluted ammonia. 

Lye stains on colored goods should be sponged 
with vinegar and water. 

Vaseline stains are difficult to remove. Sponge 
the stain with ether. Vaseline stains on wash goods 
will usually wash out with soap and tepid water if 
treated before the piece has been in hot water. 

Paint and varnish may be removed with alcohol, 
turpentine, or chloroform. 

Stains from sewing machine oil, if on wash goods, 
may be removed by rubbing with lard and then wash- 
ing out with soap and tepid water before being put 
with the general wash. 

Soot spots on carpet should be cleaned up with 
corn meal or bran. 

STAIN AND TARNISH ON SILVER. 

There are various preparations on the market for 
cleaning silver that are highly recommended, but none 
are safer or more satisfactory than refined whiting. 
Moisten with alcohol or ammonia and rub onto the 
sliver with a soft cloth; let dry, and then rub off with 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 65 

a dry cloth and polish with chamois skin or "prepared 
canton flannel." The latter is as satisfactory as 
chamois skin and is much less expensive. 

Use the cheap, loosely woven canton flannel — a 
yard makes two good polishing cloths. It is prepared 
in the following manner : Use a heaping tablespoon- 
ful of baking soda, with hot water enough to cover 
the yard of cloth; boil fifteen minutes and hang out 
to dry, without wringing or rinsing, so that the soda 
will dry into the fibres of the cloth. This prepared 
canton flannel is also very good for polishing mirrors 
and window glass. To clean silver which is much 
ornamented use a soft brush . 

To keep silver from tarnishing after it has been 
cleaned wrap in canton flannel or jeweler's tissue 
paper and place in a tight box with a generous lump 
of camphor gum. The camphor will evaporate after 
a time and must then be renewed," but as long as the 
box is air tight and smells strongly of camphor the 
housekeeper will be sure to find her silver ready for the 
table. 

To clean brass and copper rub with pumice stone 
and oil, and polish with dry whiting and a coarse 
flannel. 

Sapolio is satisfactory for cleaning common arti- 
cles, but scratches highly polished surfaces. 

Hot vinegar and salt cleans these metals quickly 
and easily, but when used they soon tarnish again. 

Oxalic acid solution (one ounce of crystals to one 
pint of water) cleans brass and copper with but little 
effort. Rinse off the acid with hot water and polish 

5 



66 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

with dry flannel and whiting. Oxalic acid is poison 
and must be handled carefully and the bottle labeled. 

Brass and copper tarnish quickly after any acid 
cleaning. 

Nickel is cleaned with whiting and strong ammonia. 
If deeply tarnished sapolio may be used. If nickel is 
tarnished by heat, as stove trimmings are apt to be, 
it is difficult to restore the polish. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER IX. 

1. (a) What is , the difference between sanitary 
cleanliness and aesthetic cleanliness? (b) Illustrate 
by describing the cleaning of a room by each method. 

2. How does soap act in cleaning a kitchen table? 

3. (a) What will you do with a table napkin that 
is stained with strawberries and cocoa? (b) One 
stained with jelly and coffee? 

4. Why is soap objectionable on painted wood 
work? How does it affect the appearance of the 
paint? 

5. (a) Why is great care necessary in removing 
stains? (b) Do you regard it as a waste of time to 
remove every stain from linen and towels? 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 67 



Chapter X. 

DISHWASHING. 

Washing- dishes is usually regarded as oue of the 
most disagreeable tasks iu housekeeping; but knowl- 
edge of the best methods, and of the systematic ar- 
rangement of this work, will rob it of most of its re- 
pugnance. There is a right and a wrong- way of doing- 
even such commonplace work as washing- dishes, and 
as is true in all cases the right way is the easy way. 

The common faults of dish washing are, — 
First, Dishes not carefully scraped; 
Second, Dish water not changed often enough; 
Third, Dishes not properly rinsed; 
Fourth, Use of soiled or wet tea towels. 

Dishes should be carefully scraped so there will 
be the least food practicable to be washed off in the 
dish water. Dishes that are very greasy should be 
partially cleaned with a piece of soft paper or a little 
hot water before they are put into the dish water. Bits 
of rags may be kept in the work table drawer for that 
purpose and burned when used. Rinse milk and cream 
dishes with tepid water before washing. 

Sorting and piling, as the dishes are scraped ready 
for washing, is an important part of the work. Place 
those that are to be washed first nearest to the dish 
pan. The work is more easily and quickly done if the 1 
dishes are arranged in an orderly manner, the same 
kinds piled together. Keep teaspoons, larger spoons, 
forks and knives each in a separate pile; they are less 
liable to be rubbed and scratched if handled sep- 
arately. 



68 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

Order in which dishwashing should, be done, — 
First, Glassware; 
Second, Teaspoons; 
Third, China cups and saucers; 
Fourth, Fancy china pieces; 
Fifth, Spoons, forks and knives; 
Sixth, Side dishes; 
Seventh, Plates, small ones first; 
Eighth, Vegetable dishes and platters; 
Ninth, Earthen cooking utensils; 
Tenth, Tin and granite cooking utensils, steel 
knives, etc; 

Eleventh, Iron cooking utensils. 

Use plenty of hot water and a clean dish cloth. 

In washing glasses do not use soap; it makes them 
dull and milky looking after a time. A little borax 
or household ammonia in the water brightens 
the glasses. Do not .roll the glasses about in a pan 
as it mars them. Rinse in hot water and wipe at 
once on clean, dry towels, rubbing briskly until each 
piece shines. 

Teaspoons, especially if sterling silver, must be 
carefully handled and not stirred about on the bottom 
of the pan; this wears them more 1 than their use on 
the table. Rinse in hot water and wipe dry at once. 
This is an important point if the housekeeper wishes 
;o avoid frequent cleaning of the silver. 

China dishes are better washed without soap as 
some gilding and some coloring are affected by lye. 
Hot water should be used for rinsing china but a 
little care should be taken as some kinds of china, have 
a glazing that will crackle under boiling water. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 69 

After the silver is washed and dried, and the 
dishes that are wiped put away, the dish water should 
be renewed and hot, soapy water used for plates, veg- 
etable dishes, etc. Rinse these pieces both inside and 
outside in hot water. If the dishes are thoroughly 
heated with rinsing water the drying is more quickly 
accomplished, and the dishes are made more shiny. 

Tins and .Granite Ware require clean, hot, soapy 
water. All that tins need to keep them looking clean 
and bright is thorough washing in soap suds. Greasy 
water darkens them. All such utensils should be 
scalded and wiped on tea towels. Do not permit the 
tins and stove utensils to be smeared over with a 
greasy dish cloth under pretense of drying them. If 
such utensils are well washed in clean suds they will 
not blacken tea towels. 

Tins must be dry before putting away as they rust 
easily if left damp. 

Cooking Knives and Forks must not be allowed 
to lie in water as it loosens the handles and soon ruins 
them. They should be scoured once a day at least. Be 
sure that the blade of the knife rests flat on the board 
when scoured. Too much bending in scouring 
loosens the handles. 

Bath brick is best to scour knives with, and the 
work is accomplished better if a little pearline or 
gold dust is mixed with it. Sapolio is also excellent 
for scouring cutlery. Both knives and forks should 
be thoroughly dry before being put away. 

After the dishes are put away, use a little hot 
water and soap and wash up the tables and dish 



70 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

cloths. Two dish cloths should be used, one for the 
table dishes and one for cooking utensils, and both 
should be washed clean and scalded after each using. 
A dark, unsightly, ill-smelling "dish rag" marks a 
poor house keeper as plainly as any one piece of her 
work. 

Good house keepers differ in their opinions as 
to whether tea towels should be rinsed out after each 
meal or be put aside when soiled to go in the wash. 
Which ever method be thought desirable the tea towels 
must be put through the regular wash and thoroughly 
boiled once a week. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER X. 

1. What are the advantages of a systematic plan 
for washing dishes? 

2. What are the advantages and disadvantages 
of soap in dish washing? 

3. When must tin- water be boiling and when 
not? Why? 

4. Why should dish cloths and tea towels be well 
cared for? State their proper treatment. 

5. State how steel knives and forks should be 
cared for, giving reasons for each suggestion. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 71 

Chapter XI. 

DINING ROOM SERVICE. 

There is great variation in different families as to 
their customs in setting the table and serving the 
meals; and while individuality in home life is to be 
commended there are certain generally accepted ways 
that will be found conducive to that orderly living 
that is such an important factor in house keeping. 
If the old law, "Let everything be done decently and in 
order," is ever applicable it is applicable in table ser- 
vice. The quiet, orderly serving; of meals is not only 
essential to the comfort of the family, but it is indis- 
pensable to the inculcation of orderly habits in the 
children of the home. 

LAYING THE TABLE. 

It is desirable to have a pad under the table cloth 
to prevent noise, to give a better appearance to the 
linen, and to prevent the table cloth wearing at the 
edges of the table. Felt or. double faced canton flan- 
nel is prepared especially for table pads, but a cheap, 
white cotton blanket cut in half will do very good 
service as a table pad, and is easily laundered when 
soiled. Over this pad place the table cloth with the 
center fold in the middle of the table, and the ends 
even. A center piece of some kind adds greatly to the 
appearance of the table; a small potted plant, a vase 
of flowers, or a prettily arranged dish of fruit will 
be satisfactory. 

Place the sugar and cream near the hostess and 
arrange the salt, pepper, pickles, and other dishes in 
an orderly manner. In laying each individual cover 



72 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

place the fork at the left of the place, tines up, and 
the knife at the right. Place the spoons, bowls up, 
beside the knife in order of their use, the one to be 
used first farthest from the knife. If soup is served 
the soup spoon will be the outside one. 

The bread and butter plate may be placed near the 
tip of the fork and the water glass by the end of the 
knife blade. Place the napkin at the left of the fork. 

If soup is to be served have a small plate at each 
place to set the soup bowl in. 

If warm drink is served at the beginning of the 
meal place the cups and saucers by the hostess' place 
when setting the table; if not served until near the 
close of the meal they should be brought on at that 
time. 

TABLE SERVICE. 

If a meal is served in courses, only such food as 
belongs to a given course should be on the table at 
a time. In serving a simple breakfast place all of 
the food on the table at once. If served in courses 
keep the food of the later courses warm in the kitchen 
until needed. In serving dinner, if soup is used it 
may be served from the kitchen and be in place on the 
table when the company are seated. Soup may also 
be served from a tureen at the table by either host or 
hostess. When the soup is through remove the bowls 
and small plates and the crackers, croutons, or what- 
ever was served with the soup. 

Serve the meat course as follows: Place the meat 
platter in front of the host with the carving knife and 
fork for cutting the meat. Place the heated plates at 
his left and the potatoes at his right. Other vegeta- 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 73 

bles may be served by the hostess or by some one 
whom she may designate. 

When the table is served by a waiter the following 
rules should be observed : 

Whatever the waiter places by the individual, — 
plate, side dish, etc., must be placed from the right side. 
Whatever the waiter passes for the individual to help 
himself, must be passed at the left side. Placed from 
the right ] passed at the left, is the universally ac- 
cepted rule of service. 

In clearing the table ready for the next course 
remove the food first, then the clean dishes, if there 
are any that have not been used, then the soiled dishes. 
Most of this may be done with a tray, but the inexpe- 
rienced person will probably find it easier to dispense 
with the use of that utensil. The waiter should place 
the side dishes on the plate as it sets in front of the 
guest; remove it with the right hand and pass it to 
the left hand. Then another plate should be ar- 
ranged in the same way and carried out in the right 
hand over the one in the left. After setting them 
down in the kitchen or pantry the process should be 
repeated until the first course is cleared away. If 
a tray is used do not pile the dishes so as to make un- 
necessary noise. Everything belonging to one course 
must be removed before serving the next. 

After the table is cleared the crumbs should be 
removed and the next course served. Either a fringed 
napkin and a plate, or the usual tray and knife, may 
be used to remove the crumbs. 

It is good form to have pie cut and served at the 
table by host or hostess. The host usually serves pie 
and the hostess serves the pudding or fruit. 



74 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

Many families prefer tea, coffee or chocolate served 
with the dessert. In that case it must not be made 
until the meal is in progress. Cups should be warmed 
in cold weather. Have a pitcher of hot water on the 
table so that the beverage may be made of the strength 
to suit the guest. 

It is good form to put the cream and sugar in 
the cup before it is filled, first having ascertained the 
taste of those served. During the progress of the meal 
the host and hostess should, as far as practicable, 
anticipate the needs of the guests and supply them 
unasked. 

Do' not ask a guest if he will have more meat or 
other food, thereby implying that one portion has 
already been given. Use some other form of inquiry; 
as, "May I help you to meat?" "Will you be helped 
to potato?" "Is there anything I can help you to?" 

Keep the water glasses filled during the meal 
without asking if water is desired. If cups are empty 
ask if the cup shall be filled. "Let me give you a cup 
of cocoa;" " May I fill your cup?" "Let me serve you 
to hot tea." 

Care must be taken not to fill the cup too full and 
not to slop any in the saucer. 

When the host helps the plates he should help the 
ladies before helping men and children. However, 
the most distinguished guest, if there be such, is 
helped first. 

When the waiter passes dishes from which, the 
guests help themselves she commences serving at the 
right of the hostess and passes around the table in 
order. 

In removing dishes take them from the side that 
is most easily reached; this will usually be the right 
side. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 75 

The extra silver and dishes needed in serving the 
meal should be in place on the side board. The water 
pitcher and bread plate may be kept on the side board 
and passed as necessary, or they may be kept upon 
the table with equal propriety. 

GENERAL RULES FOR THE WAITER. 

1. Stand erect; 

2. Step lightly and quickly; 

3. Handle dishes quietly; 

4. Hold the tray so as not to touch clothes; 

5. Open and close doors quietly; 

('). Have (lean hands and finger nails; 

7. Wear clean aprons; 

8. Be sure the clothes are carefully brushed; 

9. Cut bread thin and evenly; 

10. Treat silver spoons and carving knives with 
proper respect. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER XI. 

1. Discuss the general appearance of an attract- 
ive, well served table in its influence on family life. 

2. What are the advantages of a table pad? 

3. What are the uses of the side board in serving 
meals? 

4. Describe the best way of cleaning the table 
and serving dessert when no maid is employed. 

5. (rive your ideas as to which is the more satis- 
factory, to have the carving done in the kitchen or at 
the table. 



76 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 



Chapter XII. 

A course in Methods of Housekeeping would not 
be complete without some discussion of that season 
so much dreaded by the housekeeper — house cleaning 
time. 

The general spring cleaning is, for the following 
obvious reasons, a much less serious undertaking now 
than it was a number of years ago: 

First, Housekeepers work more systematically 
than they formerly did. 

Second, The modern housekeeper has fuller knowl- 
edge of sanitation than was enjoyed by her mother 
and grandmother. 

Third, The work in the modern home has been much 
lightened by the prevalence of polished floors and 
nigs. The "all over" carpet is becoming less and less 
popular in cities. 

Even if the house is kept as clean as possible 
throughout the entire year, the spring seems a fitting 
season for a general freshening up of rooms and fur- 
nishings. This general cleaning and refitting must be 
done in an orderly manner so that the daily life of the 
family will be as little disturbed as possible. 

Before commencing the heavier part of tin 1 work, 
clean wardrobes, clothes closets, drawers, boxes and 
other receptacles. Look through piece bags and pat- 
tern bags. Look over old clothes; if too poor to re- 
model or to give away, cut out the good parts and 
burn up or otherwise dispose of the rest. It is neither 
wise nor righteous to keep partly worn and outgrown 
clothing lying around year after year when it might 
be of great value to some needy family. 






HUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 77 

Various odd bits of work, that would otherwise de- 
lay house cleaning, may be done before the regular 
work is commenced, — such as repairing damaged 
places in plastered walls with plaster or Plaster of 
Paris; mending damaged places in wall paper; sewing 
up rips in carpet to prevent their becoming larger 
during cleaning; etc. The regular cleaning should 
not be commenced until the weather is sufficiently set- 
tled to have the stoves removed or the furnace taken 
down; this would endanger the health of the family 
unless other arrangements for warmth can be made. 

ROUTINE FOR HOUSE CLEANING. 

1. Cellar; 

2. Garret; 

3. Upstairs' rooms; 

4. Front porch and hall; 

5. Parlor and sitting room ; 

6. Dining room and china closet; 

7. Kitchen and pantry; 

8. Washroom and back porches. 

If the cellar is under the house it is usually best 
to clean it first. The garret should be cleaned and put 
in order next so that the discarded furnishings from 
the rooms below may be stored there . 

The upstairs' bedrooms and halls come next. 
Then it is best to commence at the front of the house 
and work back, leaving the kitchen and back part of 
the house until the last. 

One room should be cleaned and settled before an- 
other one is commenced. This rule may have to be 
deviated from when the movements of painter and 
paper hanger must be waited upon. 

LcrfG. 



7 8 DOMESTIC SCIENCE. 

RENEWING VARNISHED FURNITURE. 

One of the tasks that accompany the spring ren- 
ovation of the house is brightening and repairing 
the furniture. Turpentine and linseed or olive oil 
make one of the best dressings for use in cleaning 
and brightening polished furniture. Apply with a 
flannel and wipe off with a clean cloth, then rub 
briskly and thoroughly with a dry cloth. 

Preparations of stain may be purchased from any 
painter and they are not difficult to use. After the 
stain dries dress it with a good varnish. 

A very satisfactory and easy method of re- 
newing old furniture is to treat the furniture with 
Jap-a-lac. This is a preparation of stain and var- 
nish and can be obtained in a variety of colors. Real 
old and shabby furniture if strong, may be made 
respectable by nibbing off the old varnish with sand 
paper and applying two coats of Jap-a-lac in the 
desired color. 

Putting Away Winter Clothing. — One of the im- 
portant parts of the spring cleaning is the putting 
away of furs and woolen garments so that moths will 
not damage them. Be sure that all pieces are 
thoroughly beaten and brushed and repaired. 

Furs and Feathers should be put in stout paste 
board boxes with tight covers, and then a strip of pa- 
per around each box so as to unite the box and cover. 

Woolen Underclothing, stockings, mittens, and 
similar articles, when clean and mended, should be 
put into a bag of new unbleached muslin of heavy 
weight. Moths will not go through the cloth, and, 
if the opening is tightly tied, the garments will be 
safe. 






HOUSEHOLD EQONOMICS. 79 



Such a bag can be made large enough to hold a coat 
on a stretcher, and can be hung in the wardrobe. If 
the opening is tightly fastened the moths can not 
find an entrance. 

Woolen garments may also be wrapped in large 
newspapers, and then other large papers put outside, 
so that the moth can not find entrance to deposit eggs. 

With a clean house, furniture bright and clean, 
and the winter clothing mended and put safely away' 
the housekeeper may enjoy, with a clear conscience' 
the beautiful days of early summer. 

REVIEW FOR CHAPTER XII. 

1. Why are order and system so essential in 
house cleaning? 

2. Why is this cleaning period necessary? Can 
not the house be kept clean all the time? 

3. What are the reasons for the order given in 
which the rooms should be cleaned? 

4. Describe the cleaning of the cellar. 

5. Why should all preparations for house clean- 
ing be made before the work is commenced? 



EXAMINATION 



When the study of the manual is completed aud 
the student is satisfied that he is prepared for exami- 
nation, ihen, and not till then, he may cut this folio 
and proceed to the preparation of his examination 
papers. When the examination topics have been once 
seen the student should not again refer to the text. 



HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS. 

I. (a) Draw a plan of home kitchen, locating 
each large article of furniture — stove, sink, work ta- 
ble, etc. (b) Also draw plan of pantry and store 
room, indicating location of dining room. 

II. Write out complete list of furnishings of 
kitchen, and give the approximate cost of each item. 

III. Discuss fully the ideal sleeping room with 
respect to location, size, light and furnishings, giving 
reasons for your statements. 

IV. Describe an ideal family living room; giving 
location, windows, wall finish, carpet or rugs ami gen- 
eral furnishings. 

V. Give all Hie reasons von can for having a sys- 
tematic plan for house work. 

VI. Discuss the laundering of flannel or wool 
goods to avoid shrinking and discoloring. 

VII. Write out a menu for a simple three course 
dinner and describe in detail the setting of the table 
and serving the dinner. 

VIII. How may the hard and disagreeable parts 
of house cleaning be avoided? 

IX. What suggestions for economy of time 
strength and money have been given in this course? 

X. Give the general characteristics of idea! home 
furnishings of all kinds. 



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